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Post #4161
Youtube's shake correction made it look smooth but VERY weird.
Sorry about that, chaps.
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-snip, wrong topic-
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lol shit, My car run but sometime the ecu just decide he doesn't want to inject anymore and I have to reset it...
happen after like 20min, I suspect when the ecu is hot
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What do you think might be the problem, mang?
Speaking of ECUs, going to try and find me an OBD0 B16a dizzy or B18A1 dizzy, so that I can order a GSR map for my PM6 and run one-wire VTEC but return the harness to stock. It's been hacked up so much on this CRX, it's sad to see.
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well, the ecu I'm rocking (that is randomly shutting off after 20min) was previously broken and recently repaired
but it is possible that there was more damage beyond the capacitors...
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There might still be some cold solder joints, so when it heats up it stops working. If you know anyone who is any good at ReFlowing, you could have them go over it. Other then that I can't further speculate what the problem could be. I'd have to see it for myself but I don't think that's going to happen.
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Prepped
Painted
Admired
Edited:
Also cleaned engine bay and resprayed engine cover
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Is that a gsi ? or 1.4
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Only a 1.4 GLS
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I don't actually like that car but I like your style
So I don't know what to think
You're doing great things to it but I think it's the wrong car to those things with
Not including repairing it... every car deserves to be fixed but the modifications
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If it's me you're talking to (I assume it is) then I agree!I don't actually like that car but I like your style
So I don't know what to think
You're doing great things to it but I think it's the wrong car to those things with
Not including repairing it... every car deserves to be fixed but the modifications
Only problem is my age, i'm only 20 so I can't afford insurance on something bigger just yet!
Gotta start somewhere
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I assume you are British?
I'm 20 aswell and I've got three cars
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also, knock sensor code...
probably one of the shitty connector not connecting properly. I redid the wiring the other day so it can't be that
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You and your knock sensor
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I know it's frustrating.
also fuck ecus, I'm about to go megasquirt V3 and have the car off the road for another month
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Yes I amI assume you are British?
I'm 20 aswell and I've got three cars
From your avatar I imagine they are 3 Volkswagens?
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Almost
'71 Beetle, '83 Golf and '88 Jeep Cherokee
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My Dad and I were working on a '73 Camaro RS.
We were re-adjustiing the rubber nose cone because of the ugly gap the OEM replica caused (doesn't fit at all.)
The car itself pretty worn though.
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Have heard nothing but good things about megasquirt, as long as you know what you're doing.
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Tell me how it goes, Many people have used MS on their 240 Turbo projects.
I know nothing about ecus so I haven't ventured there yet.
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Speaking of OBD0 and B16A's, I found out my OBD0 B16A was meant to have two o2 sensors in the upper part of the header but only had one at the end of it which had no less than 3 butt connectors on the wire. I think I'm just going to plug the o2 hole on the B18B1 header I tossed on there since what I read it would be safer than letting the ECU ruin the fuel mixture completely until I can get a header with proper o2 sensor bungs someday.
It fucking sucks being broke and having a suspended license, all I need is a battery and oil to see if it will even start....
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Going down road all of a sudden I hear. *POP*
Battery light comes on, I'm like fuk. I check if I had powersteering Nope.
So I pulled over, checked to see wats up. serpentine belt why u in off track!
Found this cock 100ft from were I pulled over.
For the last week I've been hearing a grinding noise and thought "Fuck it I will wait untill it brakes to fix it because I have a work for the next 8 days."
On the last day I had to go to work it gave out. Thank you car for waiting.
~Wrench Swag Time~
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You've pretty much single handedly scared me away from owning any Audi.
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I will tell you straight up. If the car was previously maintained by some one else your good.
But if it was poorly maintained you got your work cut out.
As your in AA my guess is every one that will read this owns wrenches. Working on this thing is piss easy. It takes time to get to things, It takes time to prepare, it just takes time.
And the main thing to remember its not maintenance. Its preventive Maintenance.
In the year I've owned it, I have had more fun/trouble in this car than I can wrap my head around.
And here is the knock out punch. Working on it with your Dad and Stepdad bonding, is some of the things I will never forget. SON OF A BITCH HAND ME A TOWEL OIL IS GOING EVERYWHERE
Also its not bad for a engine that has 398k miles and chassis with 190k miles
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B16A with a B18 header? Big nono, be prepared to drag that shit all over the place. The deck height of the B18 is quite a bit more than that of the B16 (And B17, as it had an identical block). The B18 header on the B17 I have has been dragged ALL OVER and is nearly flat in some spots, I'll have to get a picture sometime.
Also, OBD0 VTEC models had two one-wire O2 sensors, not two upper and one lower. This applies to every OBD0 VTEC platform, which basically is just the B16A.
Personally I plan on going with a single one-wire O2 and one-wire VTEC on a PM6 ECU rather than going through the hassle of re-pinning for a stock OBD0 B16A ECU. That way I can get a proper fuel map for the B17 and clean up a lot of extra wiring that isn't needed (dual 4-wire O2 sensors, three extra wires for VTEC, etc.)
But this is in a slightly different platform, though yours is similar in many ways.
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It currently has stock EG suspension on it so the front end is retardedly high. I traded straight across to a buddy for the cut ebay coilovers that came on it.. I don't plan to run the header for very long as it won't meet up to the rest of the exhaust anyways.
The header which came on the car was completely caved in from someone taking it through a ditch or something. Since it was nearly pinched completely shut I drilled a hole through it and found that there was about 1/4" of space to the other side which probably contributed to it running like absolute shit when we bought it.
So would buying a B16A header and having two o2 bungs welded into it and plugging the lower be the best route? I was thinking that buying a OBD0 B18A1 header and just getting a second bung welded on would be the most cost effective.
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second ecu died for good, same symptoms as the guy who had it before the repair.
I just hit two bad ecus, my luck is sub-zero but As soon as I get a good ecu it'll be fine
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So the last few weeks now by working between the frequent random rainstorms I have now gone from this:
to this:
Edited:
Summary:
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Your car is grayscale.
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It will be a little more exciting when I'm done
I got a lot of exterior parts lying around
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I almost thought those two pictures were grayscale
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I really have to paint (or at least wash) those fender flares
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Fender flares off.
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Your best bet would be buying an ebay B16 header period. If you're running proper OBD1 VTEC it's one upper four-wire and one lower four-wire. If it's proper OBD0 it's got one upper one-wire and one lower one-wire. All the cheap ebay headers only have one of the locations bunged, but adding another should be cheap.
You're running this in a DA, right? Your DA should have only one O2 sensor from the factory, in both OBD0 and OBD1 form, unless you had a 92-93 GSR with the B17. I'd get a header with just the one bung and eliminate one O2 sensor with a new basemap for your ECU, via Xenocron or such.
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Black spray paint always looks good for those plastic bits With proper preparation and coats and whatnot
I really have to paint (or at least wash) those fender flares
I like where that car's going.
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For the grille and bumpers on my friend's golf we used a "barbecue black", after cleaning and prepping the plastics it looked really nice.
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Hell Strike Plasti-Dipped a plastic trim piece under the windshield and it looked pretty good but Plasti-Dip is hard to clean without ruining it. I'm not sure if he posted pictures in here about it, it was a while ago.
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I hate plasti-dip. I remember when he did that, it looks nice, but a good thick coat of a satin finish black makes plastic look new for a very long time.
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still looks new lol
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I bought the DA with the swap, I'm pretty sure it has a PR3 ECU but it might possibly be a PW0 but I really don't think it is and they are pretty much the same anyways.
It's 100f outside and far too hot to go digging into the passenger floor to see if both o2 sensors are wired but I'm guessing that they just extended the original wire out from what would have been the original header down to the terrible thing they used as a header.
From what I understood is that the 90-91 DA was OBD0 and the 92-93 was OBD1, mine is a 90 and would have come stock with an o2 sensor in the upper part of the header since it was unheated where as the OBD1 was at the end like we see on OBD1/2 hondas(at least b series ones?). However with the OBD0 PR3 and PW0 two o2 sensors were placed in the header to control fuel mixture to cylinders 1/4 and 2/3, I figured it would be cheapest and easiest to buy a header intended for a OBD0 B18A1 and to just have a bung welded on the other side or something.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/90-91-Acura-...ht_2835wt_1397
However, if I were to go for a B16 header since you say the blocks are shorter and just have two bungs welded in on the correct places it would also make the header a little more valuable with being compatible with the other o2 placement as well and would allow me to convert it to OBD1 or something.
If I were to get it chipped I could also eliminate the need for one o2 sensors but how would that work with an ECU intended for a non heated o2 sensor? I would still need it placed in the upper bung and there wouldn't be any cheap headers intended for a OBD0 style B16 so I'd still have to get one welded.
I'm not planning to have the car lowered, I'm actually planning to buy stock suspension as everything aftermarket on it is ripped and broken and I already have my car which is lowered.
Friendly x 1
Winner x 2
Agree x 1
Funny x 1
