Not really, fig rigs are better for filming since you can move around on your feet.
Not really, fig rigs are better for filming since you can move around on your feet.
Make a shoulder rig using your tripod.
Not as good as an actual shoulder rig from like Jag35, tried one before.
just by the way, I can confirm that you can adjust the exposure of the shot both during and before taking a video. (On both a d7000 and a d5100)
It will also use a pretty decent autoexposure system, but you can even lock that out and control it fully manually.
I don't know why you are saying Nikon cameras lack these features.
The Canon HDSLR's pretty much deliver the best quality at the pricepoint. If you're looking for something that's easier than use, then you will most likely need to sacrifice quality. The D7000 does have a superb auto mode though.
So, I like totally get a free iPad 2 in October and the only reason I would consider keeping it is if I can use it with my D7000, tethering and stuff. Anyone know or had experiences doing such?
dual slots ftw
Gimme the low-down on this lens - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...pf_rd_i=507846
I know it's f/4.5-5.6 but personally I don't really see that as a problem as there are ways around it and I shouldn't worry about it unless I'm gonna be really pro.
Plus I have looked at samples and don't really see any issues. But hey who knows, you guys know more than me.
I find usually, the greater the zoom range, the lesser the quality. Like, if you want a tele, get one; if you want a mid range, get one. I guess if you don't know what you want, then the range is excellent for the price. but that is what transfers over to the "primes are usually better than zooms" mindset.
but that's all second hand. it could be amazing.
also look at the 55-200. It's supposedly even cheaper?
Well my dad used to be a bit of a pro-photographer and he suggested I go for at least 300mm, get more bang for my buck I guess. Plus I already have an 18-55mm kit lens, so effectively those two lenses would make me 18-300mm capable ;)
Although it's not out of the question, I see the 55-200 lens is cheaper and gives me .5 more F-stop. I guess I could just buy a more zoomy lens later if I feel as though I need it.
only downside is if you're OCD, the rubber is slightly different, and the plastic is just an iota lighter, and has a wider diffuse to the gloss. That's what ya get when it's plastic instead of magnesium, but the feel is pretty solid. If you drop and break the grip because it isn't magnesium, you can buy another and still not have spent as much as you would have on the nikon one, hah.
bonus content, the RF trigger is mounted because I'm too lazy to take it off, and it looks technical anyways so... yeah.
Amazon.com, says it's "Neewer" brand but comes labeled Meiki. I do not care.
Battery grip + rf trigger add +50 points to your ~pro~ meter.
I feel terrible but it's true
Unfortunately, presence is a factor in getting jobs on the spot, as well as making people feel they're getting their money's worth before they recieve images, rather than feel uneasy about that kid with the camera that kinda looks like that one we saw at walmart. Thankfully I have reason for everything, not just "buy shit that looks pro to get the chicks" and all that.
£45 for third party and £172 for Nikon. Looks like I'll be in for getting some sweet kicks! Is the one shown in .co.uk same as what you have?
When I did my first portrait work for a friends family (which turned out bad imo but they liked it) Setting up I brought in my camera bag, stand for the umbrella and umbrella bag, they thought "very professional aren't we!"
Yeah, that's the same one. You can even see the Meiki name on that gray product sticker near the screw mount. this grip feels great, works great, though for some reason dials wouldn't work the first time I plugged it in, I got scared it was defective, it started working when I took it off and stuck it back on. Just needed to settle.
Comes with both a tray for one camera-specific battery- your other one stays inside the camera, so set the battery order to "MBD-11 first" so it exhausts the pack's battery when available and you don't have to poke at the internal one as much. It also comes with a tray that holds 6 AA batteries and lasts a good few hundred shots.
Check the amazon reviews, it's pretty unanimous that it's better for your buck. There's several people who've handled both and say there's absolutely no reason to buy the nikon one unless you're really just that picky about the body material being exactly the same as the camera, not to mention the odd dial reversal thing. Somehow I didn't even notice they were reversed, but it seems logical when I flip the camera around to change the direction I scroll to adjust aperture/shutter speed. Using it for the past couple days, I have to say it feels right at home.
Did any of you guys know that Nikon sources all of it's sensors save for the D3 and D700 from Sony?
Also Nikon still use CCD sensors wheras Canon use CMOS and manufacture their own sensors.
Though Nikon are starting to move to CMOS now I believe as it is technically superior and also easier to use.
Ok so what's this business about Crop Sensors and Full Frame Sensors and why something like 300mm would be bad on a Crop Sensor?
CCD was kind of left behind, I guess, and all the innovation was put into CMOS. So the Nikon cameras that are CCD are probably just slightly inferior to the CMOS equivalent. for now.
but that little bit of trivia is a reason I have no qualms about going Sony over Canikax (Canikontax?)
I'm on a tight-ass budget and I really want to get into entry level photography. Is the Canon 1000D fine?
Also, how's the Opteka fisheye adapter?
B-Hazard will tell you to try film instead because there's less initial investment and you can get a very good film camera and lens for the price of the 18-55 to go with it. No, it's not perfect. Yes, he's biased because he likes film, but he makes good points. Original Thread.
once you choose a set up, make sure you cross check your prices and all. I like DigitalRev's videos, but I've seen gear $100 cheaper from Amazon.
I've read that thread already. I actually know a guy selling his analog SLR for 500 SEK. Which is cheap. Just don't really feel like getting into film photography first. I'd actually like to not have to worry about not getting my film's worth.
If you would have a 50mm lens on a full frame sensor then that 50mm would be just a 50mm. Now, if you put it on a crop-sensor body, that 50mm would have to be recalculated with the cropfactor(Most Nikons use a cropfactor of 1.5. Canon uses mostly 1.6 for their crop-sensor bodies.)
So let's say you put that 50mm on a Canon 1000D, which has a cropfactor of 1.6, the actual focal length would be 1.6 x 50mm = 80mm.
This has an advantage and disadvantage. If you like using big zoomlenses than you get more zoom on a cropbody compared to the fullframe counterpart.(remember, the fullframe camera uses the 'real' focal length while cropsensor multiply the focal length with the cropfactor)
For instance, a 70-300mm lens on a cropsensor-body would actually be more like a 110-480mm lens.
If you like wide-angle more than a fullframe camera would be more usefull because it is 'less zoomed-in'
That is the easy version
Only older nikons and entry level ones use ccd, afaik. D90 and above have cmos sensors.
So this guy is selling his Canon EOS 1000f along with two lenses, Canon EF 35-105 mm f/3.5-4.5 and Canon EF 35-80 mm f/4-5.6. 500 SEK (77 dollars). Hmm?
I won't be having any money for a long time, but I might just buy that one if more people can approve as I don't have any clue how good it is.
Except the lens that guy was looking at was DX so it would be a true 300mm, not 450mm.
This seems like the most appropriate thread to post it in, so a question about lenses
Is there a "standard" way to attach lenses to a camera, or can you only use certain lenses on certain bodies?
I ask because my parents used to do a lot of photography and have a whole bag of lenses and filters for their SLRs (One is a Canon AE-1 Program, not sure about the other), I was wondering if they could be used on a modern DSLR
Just checked, the other one is a Canon T70
The Canon AE-1 had an FD 'breech lock' mount, where the lens went straight on and you twisted a ring at the base to secure it to the camera. Unfortunately, those older lenses do not work on newer cameras, as they now work on a bayonet system (plug onto the camera, rotate entire lens to lock in). I bought a breech style for $2 at a goodwill, so I don't think your parents' old kit is worth much selling off either. I'd say try shooting film with it all, it's real fun.