1. Post #601
    RESIDENT ASBESTOS OBSESSIVE
    B-hazard's Avatar
    July 2008
    5,507 Posts
    Not really, fig rigs are better for filming since you can move around on your feet.
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  2. Post #602
    Gold Member
    gaboer's Avatar
    May 2010
    3,832 Posts
    I read something on a photo blog and I thought it was pretty cool that applies to anyone that is starting off in photography or already in it.

    "Decent Tripod, Good Flash, Amazing lens"

    You don't really need a Manfrotto tripod as a beginner in photography, just get something decent that works for you.
    I've worked with a super cheapo $5 tripod my parents got, and I would still be using it had I not gotten my manfrotto.


    Make a shoulder rig using your tripod.
    Not as good as an actual shoulder rig from like Jag35, tried one before.
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  3. Post #603
    dai
    "arte"
    dai's Avatar
    February 2006
    25,951 Posts
    Not really, fig rigs are better for filming since you can move around on your feet.
    what b-hazard said.

    A tripod is great for steady, still shots, but if you need to move around a fig is a convenient route to go.



    you can make them out of PVC.

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  4. Post #604
    Gold Member
    Alcapwne's Avatar
    May 2010
    3,514 Posts
    what b-hazard said.

    A tripod is great for steady, still shots, but if you need to move around a fig is a convenient route to go.



    you can make them out of PVC.

    that's pretty neat, I might give it a go

    how viable is moving a tripod on a skateboard for moving shots?
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  5. Post #605
    RESIDENT ASBESTOS OBSESSIVE
    B-hazard's Avatar
    July 2008
    5,507 Posts
    that's pretty neat, I might give it a go

    how viable is moving a tripod on a skateboard for moving shots?
    Not very.
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  6. Post #606
    dai
    "arte"
    dai's Avatar
    February 2006
    25,951 Posts
    that's pretty neat, I might give it a go

    how viable is moving a tripod on a skateboard for moving shots?
    probably better off with a fig in your hands while you sit on the skateboard. Directly mounting stuff to a board usually has a reeeeeally rocky vibrating result even on clean roads. Skateparks and basketball/tennis courts would be the only place to shoot smooth enough directly attached I'd think
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  7. Post #607
    Gold Member
    Alcapwne's Avatar
    May 2010
    3,514 Posts
    alright, thanks
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  8. Post #608
    hyper-articulate
    Roll_Program's Avatar
    October 2007
    12,210 Posts
    that's pretty neat, I might give it a go

    how viable is moving a tripod on a skateboard for moving shots?
    It'll vibrate a lot.
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  9. Post #609
    Hi Jo
    Jo The Shmo's Avatar
    February 2009
    22,885 Posts
    just by the way, I can confirm that you can adjust the exposure of the shot both during and before taking a video. (On both a d7000 and a d5100)
    It will also use a pretty decent autoexposure system, but you can even lock that out and control it fully manually.
    I don't know why you are saying Nikon cameras lack these features.
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  10. Post #610

    June 2011
    492 Posts
    The Canon HDSLR's pretty much deliver the best quality at the pricepoint. If you're looking for something that's easier than use, then you will most likely need to sacrifice quality. The D7000 does have a superb auto mode though.
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  11. Post #611
    Gold Member
    MisterM's Avatar
    August 2005
    3,222 Posts
    So, I like totally get a free iPad 2 in October and the only reason I would consider keeping it is if I can use it with my D7000, tethering and stuff. Anyone know or had experiences doing such?

    The Canon HDSLR's pretty much deliver the best quality at the pricepoint. If you're looking for something that's easier than use, then you will most likely need to sacrifice quality. The D7000 does have a superb auto mode though.
    I love my D7000, but Canon is the way to go for DSLR video. I think Nikon may raise the bar with the D4 and D800 coming out in the next while, but a 5D MK3 couldn't be far off either?
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  12. Post #612
    dai
    "arte"
    dai's Avatar
    February 2006
    25,951 Posts
    So, I like totally get a free iPad 2 in October and the only reason I would consider keeping it is if I can use it with my D7000, tethering and stuff. Anyone know or had experiences doing such?


    I love my D7000, but Canon is the way to go for DSLR video. I think Nikon may raise the bar with the D4 and D800 coming out in the next while, but a 5D MK3 couldn't be far off either?
    ShutterSnitch plus a wireless transfer card should do the trick
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  13. Post #613
    Gold Member
    MisterM's Avatar
    August 2005
    3,222 Posts
    ShutterSnitch plus a wireless transfer card should do the trick
    Hot damn that is nifty. Extra expense of the router and wireslss card though. Where as selling it straight away means I could get a vertical grip and new shoes! DECISIONS


    dual slots ftw
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  14. Post #614
    Gold Member
    Combine_dumb's Avatar
    August 2006
    8,142 Posts
    Gimme the low-down on this lens - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...pf_rd_i=507846

    I know it's f/4.5-5.6 but personally I don't really see that as a problem as there are ways around it and I shouldn't worry about it unless I'm gonna be really pro.

    Plus I have looked at samples and don't really see any issues. But hey who knows, you guys know more than me.
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  15. Post #615
    GraniteMouse's Avatar
    April 2011
    244 Posts
    I find usually, the greater the zoom range, the lesser the quality. Like, if you want a tele, get one; if you want a mid range, get one. I guess if you don't know what you want, then the range is excellent for the price. but that is what transfers over to the "primes are usually better than zooms" mindset.
    but that's all second hand. it could be amazing.

    also look at the 55-200. It's supposedly even cheaper?
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  16. Post #616
    Gold Member
    Combine_dumb's Avatar
    August 2006
    8,142 Posts
    Well my dad used to be a bit of a pro-photographer and he suggested I go for at least 300mm, get more bang for my buck I guess. Plus I already have an 18-55mm kit lens, so effectively those two lenses would make me 18-300mm capable ;)

    Although it's not out of the question, I see the 55-200 lens is cheaper and gives me .5 more F-stop. I guess I could just buy a more zoomy lens later if I feel as though I need it.
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  17. Post #617
    dai
    "arte"
    dai's Avatar
    February 2006
    25,951 Posts
    Hot damn that is nifty. Extra expense of the router and wireslss card though. Where as selling it straight away means I could get a vertical grip and new shoes! DECISIONS
    not gonna lie, don't buy the nikon brand battery grip. The third party one I just bought is spectacular, and I like its little joystick as opposed to the d-pad for navigation. Best part, it's $70 instead of $200



    only downside is if you're OCD, the rubber is slightly different, and the plastic is just an iota lighter, and has a wider diffuse to the gloss. That's what ya get when it's plastic instead of magnesium, but the feel is pretty solid. If you drop and break the grip because it isn't magnesium, you can buy another and still not have spent as much as you would have on the nikon one, hah.

    bonus content, the RF trigger is mounted because I'm too lazy to take it off, and it looks technical anyways so... yeah.

    Amazon.com, says it's "Neewer" brand but comes labeled Meiki. I do not care.
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  18. Post #618
    Gold Member
    gaboer's Avatar
    May 2010
    3,832 Posts
    Battery grip + rf trigger add +50 points to your ~pro~ meter.
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  19. Post #619
    dai
    "arte"
    dai's Avatar
    February 2006
    25,951 Posts
    I feel terrible but it's true

    Unfortunately, presence is a factor in getting jobs on the spot, as well as making people feel they're getting their money's worth before they recieve images, rather than feel uneasy about that kid with the camera that kinda looks like that one we saw at walmart. Thankfully I have reason for everything, not just "buy shit that looks pro to get the chicks" and all that.
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  20. Post #620
    Gold Member
    MisterM's Avatar
    August 2005
    3,222 Posts
    not gonna lie, don't buy the nikon brand battery grip. The third party one I just bought is spectacular, and I like its little joystick as opposed to the d-pad for navigation. Best part, it's $70 instead of $200



    only downside is if you're OCD, the rubber is slightly different, and the plastic is just an iota lighter, and has a wider diffuse to the gloss. That's what ya get when it's plastic instead of magnesium, but the feel is pretty solid. If you drop and break the grip because it isn't magnesium, you can buy another and still not have spent as much as you would have on the nikon one, hah.

    bonus content, the RF trigger is mounted because I'm too lazy to take it off, and it looks technical anyways so... yeah.

    Amazon.com, says it's "Neewer" brand but comes labeled Meiki. I do not care.
    Aslong as its sturdy enough and does the job, I wouldn't mind. You had a play about with the official one before buying? Neewer sold some telephoto with my first camera bundle and the optical quality was awful, AWFUL! Tripod was arse too but its budget gear so what can ye do. If it is some other brand then all good. 45 for third party and 172 for Nikon. Looks like I'll be in for getting some sweet kicks! Is the one shown in .co.uk same as what you have?

    When I did my first portrait work for a friends family (which turned out bad imo but they liked it) Setting up I brought in my camera bag, stand for the umbrella and umbrella bag, they thought "very professional aren't we!"
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  21. Post #621
    dai
    "arte"
    dai's Avatar
    February 2006
    25,951 Posts
    Yeah, that's the same one. You can even see the Meiki name on that gray product sticker near the screw mount. this grip feels great, works great, though for some reason dials wouldn't work the first time I plugged it in, I got scared it was defective, it started working when I took it off and stuck it back on. Just needed to settle.

    Comes with both a tray for one camera-specific battery- your other one stays inside the camera, so set the battery order to "MBD-11 first" so it exhausts the pack's battery when available and you don't have to poke at the internal one as much. It also comes with a tray that holds 6 AA batteries and lasts a good few hundred shots.

    Check the amazon reviews, it's pretty unanimous that it's better for your buck. There's several people who've handled both and say there's absolutely no reason to buy the nikon one unless you're really just that picky about the body material being exactly the same as the camera, not to mention the odd dial reversal thing. Somehow I didn't even notice they were reversed, but it seems logical when I flip the camera around to change the direction I scroll to adjust aperture/shutter speed. Using it for the past couple days, I have to say it feels right at home.
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  22. Post #622
    RESIDENT ASBESTOS OBSESSIVE
    B-hazard's Avatar
    July 2008
    5,507 Posts
    Well my dad used to be a bit of a pro-photographer and he suggested I go for at least 300mm, get more bang for my buck I guess. Plus I already have an 18-55mm kit lens, so effectively those two lenses would make me 18-300mm capable ;)

    Although it's not out of the question, I see the 55-200 lens is cheaper and gives me .5 more F-stop. I guess I could just buy a more zoomy lens later if I feel as though I need it.
    I see no need for the 300mm if you are on a crop. Anyway I never find myself needing an equivalent focal length higher than 80mm.
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  23. Post #623
    Gold Member
    DoubleDD's Avatar
    July 2009
    2,516 Posts
    I see no need for the 300mm if you are on a crop. Anyway I never find myself needing an equivalent focal length higher than 80mm.
    i think all the rapists would beg to differ!!!!!!
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  24. Post #624
    RESIDENT ASBESTOS OBSESSIVE
    B-hazard's Avatar
    July 2008
    5,507 Posts
    Did any of you guys know that Nikon sources all of it's sensors save for the D3 and D700 from Sony?
    Also Nikon still use CCD sensors wheras Canon use CMOS and manufacture their own sensors.
    Though Nikon are starting to move to CMOS now I believe as it is technically superior and also easier to use.
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  25. Post #625
    Gold Member
    Bredirish123's Avatar
    October 2006
    9,205 Posts
    Ok so what's this business about Crop Sensors and Full Frame Sensors and why something like 300mm would be bad on a Crop Sensor?
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  26. Post #626
    GraniteMouse's Avatar
    April 2011
    244 Posts
    CCD was kind of left behind, I guess, and all the innovation was put into CMOS. So the Nikon cameras that are CCD are probably just slightly inferior to the CMOS equivalent. for now.

    but that little bit of trivia is a reason I have no qualms about going Sony over Canikax (Canikontax?)
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  27. Post #627
    Gold Member
    Oscar_SP's Avatar
    September 2005
    1,032 Posts
    I'm on a tight-ass budget and I really want to get into entry level photography. Is the Canon 1000D fine?

    Also, how's the Opteka fisheye adapter?
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  28. Post #628
    GraniteMouse's Avatar
    April 2011
    244 Posts
    B-Hazard will tell you to try film instead because there's less initial investment and you can get a very good film camera and lens for the price of the 18-55 to go with it. No, it's not perfect. Yes, he's biased because he likes film, but he makes good points. Original Thread.

    once you choose a set up, make sure you cross check your prices and all. I like DigitalRev's videos, but I've seen gear $100 cheaper from Amazon.

    Edited:

    [/mindless_sheep]
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  29. Post #629
    Gold Member
    Oscar_SP's Avatar
    September 2005
    1,032 Posts
    I've read that thread already. I actually know a guy selling his analog SLR for 500 SEK. Which is cheap. Just don't really feel like getting into film photography first. I'd actually like to not have to worry about not getting my film's worth.
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  30. Post #630
    Gold Member
    DoubleDD's Avatar
    July 2009
    2,516 Posts
    Ok so what's this business about Crop Sensors and Full Frame Sensors and why something like 300mm would be bad on a Crop Sensor?
    Full frame sensors go back to the days of film cameras.
    If you would have a 50mm lens on a full frame sensor then that 50mm would be just a 50mm. Now, if you put it on a crop-sensor body, that 50mm would have to be recalculated with the cropfactor(Most Nikons use a cropfactor of 1.5. Canon uses mostly 1.6 for their crop-sensor bodies.)
    So let's say you put that 50mm on a Canon 1000D, which has a cropfactor of 1.6, the actual focal length would be 1.6 x 50mm = 80mm.
    This has an advantage and disadvantage. If you like using big zoomlenses than you get more zoom on a cropbody compared to the fullframe counterpart.(remember, the fullframe camera uses the 'real' focal length while cropsensor multiply the focal length with the cropfactor)
    For instance, a 70-300mm lens on a cropsensor-body would actually be more like a 110-480mm lens.
    If you like wide-angle more than a fullframe camera would be more usefull because it is 'less zoomed-in'
    That is the easy version
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  31. Post #631
    Gold Member
    gaboer's Avatar
    May 2010
    3,832 Posts
    Only older nikons and entry level ones use ccd, afaik. D90 and above have cmos sensors.
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  32. Post #632
    Gold Member
    Oscar_SP's Avatar
    September 2005
    1,032 Posts
    So this guy is selling his Canon EOS 1000f along with two lenses, Canon EF 35-105 mm f/3.5-4.5 and Canon EF 35-80 mm f/4-5.6. 500 SEK (77 dollars). Hmm?
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  33. Post #633
    Gold Member
    Alcapwne's Avatar
    May 2010
    3,514 Posts
    So this guy is selling his Canon EOS 1000f along with two lenses, Canon EF 35-105 mm f/3.5-4.5 and Canon EF 35-80 mm f/4-5.6. 500 SEK (77 dollars). Hmm?
    That's an amazing deal even without the camera body isn't it?
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  34. Post #634
    Gold Member
    Oscar_SP's Avatar
    September 2005
    1,032 Posts
    I won't be having any money for a long time, but I might just buy that one if more people can approve as I don't have any clue how good it is.
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  35. Post #635
    Gold Member
    Alcapwne's Avatar
    May 2010
    3,514 Posts
    I won't be having any money for a long time, but I might just buy that one if more people can approve as I don't have any clue how good it is.
    Beg, borrow, steal, just buy it! It'll save you a lot of money in the long run
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  36. Post #636
    Gold Member
    Eric95's Avatar
    January 2009
    4,844 Posts
    So this guy is selling his Canon EOS 1000f along with two lenses, Canon EF 35-105 mm f/3.5-4.5 and Canon EF 35-80 mm f/4-5.6. 500 SEK (77 dollars). Hmm?
    Blocket?
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  37. Post #637
    Killerelf12's Avatar
    January 2008
    1,840 Posts
    Ok so what's this business about Crop Sensors and Full Frame Sensors and why something like 300mm would be bad on a Crop Sensor?
    As was said, it goes back to 35mm film. A full frame sensor is the same size as 35mm film would be. Most digital sensors, however, are smaller than that, and with how optics work, will only capture that smaller area, cropping the rest of the image out, which gives the effect of more zoom. Double D explained the rest.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crop_factor
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  38. Post #638
    GraniteMouse's Avatar
    April 2011
    244 Posts
    Except the lens that guy was looking at was DX so it would be a true 300mm, not 450mm.
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  39. Post #639
    Resident Raccoon
    kaze4159's Avatar
    January 2008
    8,907 Posts
    This seems like the most appropriate thread to post it in, so a question about lenses
    Is there a "standard" way to attach lenses to a camera, or can you only use certain lenses on certain bodies?

    I ask because my parents used to do a lot of photography and have a whole bag of lenses and filters for their SLRs (One is a Canon AE-1 Program, not sure about the other), I was wondering if they could be used on a modern DSLR

    Edited:

    Just checked, the other one is a Canon T70
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  40. Post #640
    dai
    "arte"
    dai's Avatar
    February 2006
    25,951 Posts
    This seems like the most appropriate thread to post it in, so a question about lenses
    Is there a "standard" way to attach lenses to a camera, or can you only use certain lenses on certain bodies?

    I ask because my parents used to do a lot of photography and have a whole bag of lenses and filters for their SLRs (One is a Canon AE-1 Program, not sure about the other), I was wondering if they could be used on a modern DSLR
    it all depends on the mounting bracket. Canon has changed their standards over the years, unlike nikon who's maintained the same 'bayonet' lens mounting system since they designed the Nikon F, the first classic style SLR with a pentaprism as we know it. Pentax also maintained the same mounts over the years.

    The Canon AE-1 had an FD 'breech lock' mount, where the lens went straight on and you twisted a ring at the base to secure it to the camera. Unfortunately, those older lenses do not work on newer cameras, as they now work on a bayonet system (plug onto the camera, rotate entire lens to lock in). I bought a breech style for $2 at a goodwill, so I don't think your parents' old kit is worth much selling off either. I'd say try shooting film with it all, it's real fun.
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