Register
Events
Popular
More
Post #161
My symbol pack is now available!
It can be used with Adobe Illustrator and any other vector graphics program (not yet tested).
http://chryseus8086.co.uk/?page_id=76
-
-
This is great! I'm used to working with Photoshop and Illustrator, so making circuit diagrams is going to get a lot easier for me!
Edited:
Okay, this is a new level of awesome!
http://www.engadget.com/2011/06/20/j...er-built-by-a/
This kid built an 8-bit computer using 100 common IC's (making up a custom CPU, GPU, and more!) and a fuck ton of wire!
-
Started working on my setup to make an RC car without a microcontroller, I've made a small test with a Servo Tester app from Cellbots on my android tablet and an old broken computer fan with a Modulated signal wire to control the fan speed, In theory I can have up to 4 servos connected to a single audio jack, it's still considered Embedded, right?
(Add me to the list if possible, this is a FlyTouch 2.0_105, my Defy should work with this too but I haven't tested)
-
I wanna get into a bit of arduino programming at some point in the near future but dont know what to start with or how ambitious to aim for my first project
-
I (somewhat) made a song by pulsing a relay. It sounds like shit but its still a pretty cool way to make a sound.
-
I'm starting up a couple of projects for the mid-year break, and need some way of playing mp3 or wav files (of halfway decent quality). Anyone done anything similar or have any advice?
At the moment I'm looking at either http://www.adafruit.com/products/94
or
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Arduino-M...item45fb4d539f
The more cheaply I can do this the better. I'll keep everyone updated as I make progress!
-
Post your work area.
-
Alright
-
my work area, still like that...
-
Awwww Yeahhh
-
Can I power a ps2 controller via my arduino uno? Or do I need an outside power source? I'm pretty new, and I was wondering if you can power things that are rated at 5v via the arduino, or if you need an external power source. Don't want to break my uno.
-
As long as you do not exceed the maximum power rating you can power stuff with the Uno.
From the 5V you can not draw more than about 350mA (the Uno has a 400mA fuse), from the 3.3V you can draw 50mA and from each pin you can draw 40mA but the total must not exceed the fuse rating.
-
How can you power something with a battery pack or what not and still control it with the Arduino? I haven't really looked into it but it would be nice to know how.
-
If by "control it with the arduino" you mean switch it on/off, you could always use transistors.
-
Transistors or relays. Although transistors are way cheaper.
-
I've been trying to get this to work: http://www.billporter.info/playstati...-library-v1-0/
It works, but when I press the d-pad, the pressure prints as 0. It also says "Controller found but not accepting commands". What does that mean?
-
If he's just using a battery pack he probably won't need a relay.
-
Now presenting my article on impedance:
http://chryseus8086.co.uk/?p=98
If you have any questions or problems understanding it then SAY SOMETHING so I can try make it more
beginner friendly.
-
Guys, you know how when soldering, you let the soldering pen heat up for a few minutes, then tip it, and then you touch the soldering pen to the joint, and make the solder touch the joint on the other side, so the joint gets hot and melts the solder onto itself?
Well that doesn't happen. It just doesn't. The solder stays solid unless it directly touches the solder pen.
I don't know why I fail so hard.
Help.
-
More temperature.
-
I don't think he has a soldering iron with adjustable temperature.
Are you using leaded or lead free solder?
-
Rules for good soldering
1. Get a good brand temperature controlled soldering station
2. Use leaded 60/40 or 63/37 (NOT LEAD FREE SHIT)
3. Use a decent chisel or similar tip, only use pencil tips for very fine work
4. That is all you need, some additional flux is also helpful but not required
-
There's nothing wrong with lead free solder. If you have a decent soldering iron you don't need to worry, but you can always buy silver solder if you don't. I was using a cheap crap soldering iron for years and managed with lead free just fine.
-
The only real reason to use lead free is if you are producing boards, leaded solder is easier to work with for beginners, has superior wettability and produces nice shiny joints also the good lead free solders tend to be more expensive than 60/40.
Leaded solder is still around for a reason, lead free is just not as good.
Maybe I'm a bit too harsh against lead free, but given the choice I will always stick to lead unless lead-free becomes as good and is cheap.
-
Hello, need some advice...
can I wire transformers like that? I am going to try it soon, just to see, what will happen. Oh and H-bridge will output square wave, not sine. And those flybacks are DC of course.
-
That should work as long as you get the secondary side phase the right way around, however if you generate too much high voltage (above their rating) the insulation may breakdown in one or both.Hello, need some advice...
can I wire transformers like that? I am going to try it soon, just to see, what will happen. Oh and H-bridge will output square wave, not sine. And those flybacks are DC of course.
-
Yeah that is one of my main concern..., well I will see :D.
-
Updated OP with some more content.
edit
Also added a list of suppliers, suggestions welcome.
-
http://www.futurlec.com/cgi-bin/search/search.cgi
Good supplier to me at least.
-
Futurlec is is a terrible supplier, very slow and they often sell fake transistors (and who knows what else)
-
Fair enough, I had a good experience with them, I guess some have not.
-
Well, their resistor kit is some good value for the money I think.
-
Hey guys, anyone heard for Netduino? It's like .NET version of Arduino, also runs Atmel's chip. Is it any good? ( it uses C#). I gotta buy something like Arduino but faster, and something that doesn't runs C...?
Any other suggestions?
-
A Netduino is probably the best option if you want an Arduino-like development board that you don't have to program in C/C++ or spend a long time setting up a toolchain for an unsupported language.
Also, despite the fact that the Netduino's CPU is also made by Atmel, it uses the 32-bit ARM architecture rather than 8-bit AVR like on the Arduino.
There's a list of other alternatives at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino#Non-ATmega_boards.
Is there any particular reason why you don't want to use C/C++?
-
I've made zero progress on getting my Arduino online successfully through my router, so I've set that idea aside for now and am attempting a simple POV display for my bicycle wheel instead, and getting the code as small as possible(
566546522494 bytes so far!), just because.
Currently, I'm using direct port manipulation of a single port along with the _delay_us() function from avr-libc, and I can't really think of any other way to make it smaller, unless simply using the Arduino library but none of the functions isn't causing the whole library to be optimized out by the compiler. I expect that the code will get larger once I get my hands on a hall-effect sensor and start calculating wheel speed.
As for the internet-via-router idea, I can't seem to find a serial-to-ethernet proxy that's both simple enough for me to get working AND visible to the outside world.Code:/* POVthing Hopefully for a bicycle wheel! Uses pins 0-7, PORTD */ // Libraries #include <util/delay.h> // Constants const byte numLines = 14; // Variables byte image[numLines] = { B10000000, B01000000, B00100000, B00010000, B00001000, B00000100, B00000010, B00000001, B00000010, B00000100, B00001000, B00010000, B00100000, B01000000, }; void setup() { DDRD = B11111111; // set pins 0-7 as output }; void loop() { for (int i = 0; i < numLines; i++) { PORTD = image[i]; _delay_us(1000); } };
-
As long as you don't exceed the voltage or current rating on the coils of the transformers you'll be alright.Hello, need some advice...
can I wire transformers like that? I am going to try it soon, just to see, what will happen. Oh and H-bridge will output square wave, not sine. And those flybacks are DC of course.
-
Decided to ditch small codesize until I got the bikePOV working, I got the bikePOV working, and it's going pretty well.
I didn't have any zipties, so it's all attached to the wheel with some twisted solid-core wire, except for the reed switch and magnet, which are attached with the double-sided foam tape that they came with.
-
If you want to code part smaller then store the byte array in the EEPROM
Edited:
Unless you want to piss about with a TCP stack if your going down your best off just getting a sheild or getting a chip to handle it for you EG (ENC28J60-I/SP)
-
Won't that totally unbalance the wheel?
-
Unless the arduino weights a kg or more it won't have really any impact if you roll.
Friendly x 2
Winner x 4
Agree x 2
Late x 1
Disagree x 1
Informative x 1
Artistic x 2
