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Post #3841
Could anybody recommend a nice laptop for around $800? My buddy is looking for one that can play modern games and such. I'll be checking newegg and stuff in the mean time. Thanks.
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Is anyone having trouble connecting to steam servers right now?
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So, I was looking more into the Corsair 800D and I really do not like the fact that it has no side fans or direct inline fans with the GPU. Anyone here have experience with the 800D and GPU airflow? I am keen on triple SLI and I don't to compromise cooling. With a HAF932 I can setup two 120mm's right inline with the GPU's pulling from the front of the case, along with either a large array of 120's on the door or the single big 230? I forget the size. From what I can tell on more advanced hardware forums is that airflow is great in the 800D for rads, but not very steller for air cooling.
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If I were to add an SSD to a laptop and put the old HDD in the DVD drive bay with a caddy, how much battery life would I lose compared to just having the SSD? I'm trying to decide if I should go with a 64 GB SSD and keep the 250GB HDD in the laptop or spend the extra money on a larger 128GB SSD and just keep the 250 GB drive as an external (The laptop does have eSATA).
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I'm trying to turn an old computer we have kicking around into a Linux machine. Problem is, I can't get any installation media to work. Whenever I tell the BIOS to boot from the DVD, it finds the DVD rom just fine but it cannot find any bootable information on the DVD. Same goes for my external USB DVD reader and my USB stick. It finds the hardware perfectly, but it cannot find anything on them to boot from.
I've tried several modern distros and have gotten the same results.
Do modern Linux distros have different boot systems which are incompatible with my older mobo? (MS-7021)
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Have you tried unetbootin yet?
edit: http://unetbootin.sourceforge.net/
That might work for booting from USB if you haven't tried that yet.
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http://goo.gl/YiZUo
Asus has some good gaming laptops but they're all in and around $1200 USD, Tomshardware has some good advice as well.
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Yup. Tried that. Same result.
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A max temp of 86 Celsius for a 580 is no sweat, right? I really want to lower it, but the GPU fan is loud as fucking shit, so stock setting is better than the loud custom one that decreases the temp to 78-80. I have a fairly ventilated Fractal Design Core 3000 case, but it's as if airflow just whizzes by the GPU, giving it the finger while soothingly cooling my CPU. What do?
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86 isn't too hot, but it's hot.
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I say crack open the eggs and get cooking!
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At load that isn't too bad, but it's certainly worth checking out.
In furmark my 570 barely passes 60c.
Oh, and I fixed my artifacting, had to bump GPU voltage up a tiny bit.
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It's INNO3D, which i'm pretty sure is the whole reason that it gets to 86c. It's also undervolted by .025v at stock, so to stabilize, i have to ramp it back up. That is fucking fail engineering.
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My 460 hits at least 70C (possibly 80C) when under furmark load. It doesn't seem to mind too much.
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uh oh what is it this time
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I just want to avoid the low 90s for all the shit in the world! NO!!!
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Charter y u do dis, i'm supposed to get 12Mb down, maybe my wifi dongle that's just bare PCB is messed up
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For future reference, what brand and model should I consider when I'm buying a CPU cooler?
I didn't get one now but I'll probably need one if I start overclocking or if the stock cooler is too loud. Isn't that right?
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Depends on your priorities.
Cooling above all else? Phanteks TP-14, Thermaltake Frio OcK, Ultra 120.
Quiet but decent cooling? Noctua NH-D14, Be Quiet! Dark Rock PRO
Budget but good cooling? Hyper 212 Evo
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NH-D14 seems good for me. I'll still have money for some case fans if I need them.
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It is your dongle, I have charter 60max or some shit, and I get all of it.
Charter y u do dis, i'm supposed to get 12Mb down, maybe my wifi dongle that's just bare PCB is messed up
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Does TrackIR 5 work with the source engine? Yes or no.
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I'm in desperate need of a new phone becuase my old one is...old and not working 100% and wonder if the Samsung Galaxy S II is still a good phone to buy. It's a bit over my budget but if it's good I will buy it when I get my pay.
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Its not "great" for air cooling, but tbh with three cards you dont want air cooling. Nothing short of a box fan pointed at the (open) case will cool that (air cooling wise)
That said, if you configure your fans right, theres a decent amount of air movement- its just that theres so much air to move...
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After I made that post I did quite a bit of research into the 800D on Overclock.net and Hardforum, and have come to the conclusion that people who expected air cooling with a 800D are often very disappointed with the performance. I know that with some simple modding the case can be made better, but quite simply it's got bad airflow. I love the 800D features, but I need something that performs well without water-cooling. I very much dislike the idea of water cooling, it makes already expensive GPU's even more expensive, makes working on your system more involved, would add an easy $600 to my build and considering I don't actively pursue the highest overclocks I can, doesn't seem to fit my needs. I ran triple videocards, although not in SLI for years without any issues. Many people with very high budgets still run air cooled triple SLI setups.
With the stock 800D you have a negative pressure system with one intake. That's horrible for an air setup. You can setup your top fans to actually blow inward which creates a more effective positive pressure system but that's still not enough airflow for tri-sli and a lot of people are dissapointed with the performance for normal SLI. With many other cases you can have direct airflow from the front of a case right onto the GPU's along with the same style setup directed at the CPU along with door fans.
Don't get me wrong, I absolutely love the styling and features of the 800D, but to make it fit my needs it would take $600+ in watercooling.
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Any good tablets that are good for reading manga? I was planning on getting an iPad of all things for the manga storm app, then I had a good reason to use the other things on there. Then of course, the massive price tag hit me.
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Thing is pretty much everyone puts their stuff on the appstore, also the screen would make reading a joy.
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Yeah, that was really why it was first choice. I know very little about tablets, so I figured I would come here. Unless somebody has some good pay monthly thing for an iPad 2 that I can use in the UK, I'm screwed. Littlewoods is stupidly high and the 3 Network is slightly better.
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I have recently bought another gpu for my build
My current GPU is now a 2 X Sapphire 5850's
But mine is 1GB
The new one is 2GB
In what order should i place them in my motherboard? 2GB first or just place behind the 1GB
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Doesn't matter, the 2GB one will only be able to use 1GB.
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My computer is making some rattling noises. I know about the clicking noises when a hard drive is about to die but this sounds more like rattling to me. Any idea what's going on?
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Make sure nothing is loose.
Try it out with certain components/cooling parts removed
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I've got a pair of Hyper 612's going in two rendering machines I'm working on. Anyone know anything about this cooler? It's absolutely gigantic, way larger than a 212 Evo, but it was the only one they had at Fry's. Reviews say it's a little bit worse than a 212 Evo.
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Say my name. Say it three times and I'll slap you with some computer facts.
November 2007
9,250 Posts
Okay, I'm going to finally ask about this instead of letting it go on. My Mac Pro is having some very weird issues.
Symptoms:
In OS X, when waking from sleep, the monitor will not always cut on. The computer itself seems to be working properly - the fans cycle up to full and then back down like they normally do, at least. The monitor seems to be working fine (if I have another computer running on the VGA input, it works fine for that); it would appear that the video output from the Mac doesn't cut back on. My solution is normally to press the power button to sleep it again; on re-waking, it usually works fine, although sometimes it takes several tries to get it to work.
Under my Windows partition, similar but not identical problems exist. When waking, it sometimes takes several seconds for the monitor to cut on, but it always, eventually, does. However, quite frequently, after typing in my password to sign in, it will fade to black (as normal) but then freeze. The mouse pointer (which doesn't fade out with everything else) stops moving on an otherwise black screen, and the only thing I can do is a full power-cycle.
I have noticed that, on the login page, sometimes the system lags heavily - the mouse pointer moves in jerks, probably the whole screen would but there's nothing else moving that I can see. When this occurs, signing in always results in the aforementioned Black Screen.
These problems *may* be unrelated, but that seems unlikely.
The system, for reference, is a mostly-stock 2006 Mac Pro (model 1,1 in Apple parlance). Dual Xeon 5150s (at stock 2.66GHz), 5GB of FB-DDR2-ECC (4 sticks of 1GB, 2 sticks of 512MB), ATI Radeon X1900 XT. Runs off two hard drives, the stock 250GB one holds an OS X 10.6 install, a 1TB I installed myself holds a Windows 7 Ultimate install (a 32-bit one, due to my own mistake during installation).
My suspicion is that the graphics card is finally dying. I had issues when I first got the machine with it overheating, but cleaning out the dust took care of that. However, it's still a six-year-old computer, *something* is going to break eventually.
My questions are:
1) Are there any tests you would recommend to try to determine the problem?
2) Is my suspicion (GPU failure) correct?
and if so,
3) Which replacement GPU would you recommend? Keep in mind that I'd like to keep OS X compatibility, and most cards will not work with it without special firmware. I'm actually fine with accepting a slight mark-up in price for this, but I'd also like to avoid buying from Apple (both because they're *too* overpriced, and because I've gotten this whole system built without paying them a cent and want to see how long I can keep that up).
I'd been eying this, which is pretty overpriced by most standards, but is pretty cheap by Apple standards. Only real problem is it's quite a bit out-of-date - while I don't need some screaming-fast 7970 or 680 or anything, I'd like something a *bit* more modern, preferably with more than half a gig of VRAM.
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can someone explain to me why these two (almost) identical cards have a $30 price gap?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16829132014
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...=essence%20stx
Edited:
i watched the video and it seems the stx card is aimed toward headphone users. I have some really nice monitor speakers that I use always, so I want a card that'll be able to use their full potential. Does it matter if the cards aimed for head phone users?
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Do the 3ds max measurement values, e.g inches, carry over to valve hammer editor?
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Which slot(s) do you have available? PCI, PCI-E, or both?
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I recently built a new PC and unfortunately my power supply died within a couple of days. Today my replacement arrived and I installed it. Now when I try to start my PC with the new PSU it fails to start altogether. I suspected it was the power supply again so I tried an old power supply and it still failed to start up.
Upon opening the case I realized that the CPU fan was only twitching when I powered the PC and then did nothing.
I need to establish several things:
Which part is failing here, the motherboard or the CPU?
Is there a way to establish whether the power supply is the cause of the damaged component?
So far I've tried the following things:
unplugging and plugging all the power connectors in again
unplugging and plugging the CPU fan header back in
trying it with another power supply(as mentioned above)
Some things worth noting:
No BIOS splash screen
Power supply(new) is a Corsair TX750 V2
I don't have another socket 1155 motherboard to test the CPU with
Motherboard does not have any LED indicators
No onboard speaker(that I can see)
Help is needed quite urgently, thanks in advance.
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A few options there.
Those symptoms generally mean that something is wrong with the CPU.
First thing to do is check that the CPU power (8Pin) connector is fully in.
If so, then either the CPU or Motherboard is likely broken so you'll want to find a friend with a similar build to test them with, or a local repair shop.
Your PC should also have come with a speaker to connect - do you still have that?
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I have a similar issue with my secondary setup, for me it's known why it does it. It is the monitor, I've got some bad capacitors in my Dell 2408WFP and it causes the computer to flash on and off when first woken up from sleep, sometimes it doesn't even turn on. Once the monitor has been on for a while it warms up and works fine. If I were you I would try a different monitor before buying a new GPU.
Dumb x 1
Agree x 1
Informative x 1
