It was scary
You need to work on that schematic, it's a mess
Yeah, I shouldn't have squeezed everything together so tightly
Here's an example of a PCB I designed following those guidelines:
(The MOSFETs will mount underneath, which is why the capacitor goes over them - There are also some components which need changing, but it's the traces that I'm showing you.)
The point is where possible, flood-fill to create huge low-resistance traces. Also don't forget to expand the traces as much as you reasonably can and use a Kelvin ground to the logic ground plane.
Apparently, the patent on the Commodore SID chips has just expired a few weeks ago.
Cheap 8-bit goodness, here I come!
I really want to get into electronics and embedded programming, but I have no idea, where can I start?
For the first: buy an arduino
For the latter: buy an AVR
I suggest you get an arduino, it's a great platform for beginners to learn the basics without too much frustration
Tell us what you are looking into doing and we might be able to put together a kit that suits your needs.
Well, I don't know, I just want to get basic knowledge of electronics and mess around with it, not sure what I want to do with it though.
I've been wanting to get an arduino for a long time now to turn this old matrix keyboard I ripped out of an old asian word processor into a working keyboard.
Didn't end up getting the money for an arduino, but ordered a leostick instead just because it has enough pins necessary to make the keyboard work. Only downside is I still don't understand the way that arduino I/O works yet. But I'm sure I'll pick it up pretty quick once it arrives.
Does anyone have experience making keyboards/keypads in this sort of way? I'd love for some sort of guidance with this project.
Uh, the leostick costs about the same as a normal arduino does
Oh, I guess it's price dropped as they dropped the FTDI.
It will still do the HID emulation I need.
The ultimate idea (once I get the keyboard part sorted) is to make a casing for it (with the help of my 3d printer (once I get that)) and then have a Raspberry Pi inside too, so I can have a go anywhere computer that just needs to be plugged into a TV, but also doubles as a keyboard if I change the keyboard USB cable from the Pi to a regular PC.
Found a much better replacement for the shitty java circuit simulator:
+ Supports proper components models
+ Looks better imo
+ Much more accurate and stable simulation
+ Easier to use
Looks more organized and easier to understand than most of the free SPICE simulators I've used.
So you can intersect two wires without manually breaking them and making a node? Cause that would be wonderful.
I love that Java app mainly because of the real-time aspect. Like sweeping resistor values and watching the output. That's handy and time saving. Besides that, my go to simulator is CircuitMaker 2000. Made in 2000. I really like it.
Set up my sprinkler system to be web controlled with an Arduino and Relay board.
The Arduino calls up to my webpage every ten seconds or so and the web page tells it which sprinklers to turn on. If it doesn't get a reply for 5 cycles then it turns off all sprinklers until it gets a connection again. It's been working beautifully this past week.
That's the high power H-Bridge für my tesla coil. Any opinions?
(ground plane and power connection will be added later)
I don't have the luxury of access to anything that can do double sided boards.
Also purely for interests sake, is that EAGLE you're using there?
I rearranged stuff a bit
I am putting insulating tape inbetween them
My new analog multimeter kit came in today, can't wait to put it together. The body looks quite nice and has a lot of nice features.
Right, so I'm planning to buy an Arduino Uno, with cables, leds and a breadboard to start with, am I missing something to just start off with?
Anyway, the right hand pads for the capacitors are very far away from the trace it is meant to be connected to.
There are some thin traces which could be fattened up a bit.
Don't forget that you can mount components on both sides. (But make sure that you can still access the pads for soldering when one side is loaded.)
They could all still be closer and better places for a heatsink. (Do they need a heatsink ?) For example the capacitors will get in the way of the heatsink for the right-hand capacitors and as it stands you need 4 separate heatsinks, which it could be made to use 1 or 2 larger heatsinks.
Don't forget to think about where the input / outputs will connect to.
Yay, my dad is actually gonna order 2 BA1404 IC's :D
Took some time for him to think about it though..
The right hand doesn't matter as much, as that's where I will connect the primary coil of my tesla coil, which has wires that long enough to allow this kind of spacing.
This is as comfortable as I feel with this manufacturer
Well, the components have to be soldered from the bottom side, so there's no problem with access.
Only the 2 top and 2 bottom TO220 ICs need a heatsink, the ones in the middle don't.