1. Post #41
    www.bff-hab.de
    Dennab
    February 2009
    7,832 Posts
    You don't have to ground a faraday cage in order for it to work
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  2. Post #42
    yngndrw's Avatar
    March 2008
    870 Posts
    Yeah, fuck Ebay if they actually condone this sort of thing. That's just dishonest.
    Starting bids should always be the minimum amount a seller is willing to settle for. If it's not, then it has absolutely no meaning whatsoever, and it's a farce, not a proper auction.
    At that point, there's no reason not to set your starting bid to $0.01 for every single item just to have it at the top of the list when sorted by price.
    It sounds like he didn't set a reserve price (AFAIK, It always shows "Reserve not met" near the price if there is a reserve set.), but instead he just cancelled the auction before the end and re-listed it. Contact eBay and follow this up.
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  3. Post #43
    www.bff-hab.de
    Dennab
    February 2009
    7,832 Posts
    I always thought it only was possible to cancel an auction when nobody has put a bid on it yet...
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  4. Post #44
    Gold Member
    VistaPOWA's Avatar
    October 2008
    8,370 Posts
    Let's clear things up:
    -The auction wasn't on eBay
    -The seller didn't back out, he set the minimal/reserve price to $150
    -The minimal/reserve price was hidden.
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  5. Post #45
    Gold Member
    Chryseus's Avatar
    February 2009
    2,272 Posts
    Awesome!
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  6. Post #46

    February 2012
    42 Posts
    routers

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  7. Post #47
    www.bff-hab.de
    Dennab
    February 2009
    7,832 Posts
    Nice toy-scope you have there
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  8. Post #48

    February 2012
    42 Posts
    Nice toy-scope you have there
    Its actually a good scope, for some reason is displays that awful image in the background all the time though
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  9. Post #49
    www.bff-hab.de
    Dennab
    February 2009
    7,832 Posts
    Also use [t][/t] or resize your images please.
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  10. Post #50

    February 2012
    42 Posts
    I broke it
    fuck

    I just messed the horrid bootloader's settings up though, can still change them, time to figure out how the hell to get it to load properly again
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  11. Post #51
    Gold Member
    VistaPOWA's Avatar
    October 2008
    8,370 Posts
    Its actually a good scope, for some reason is displays that awful image in the background all the time though
    That scope is good for audio at most.
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  12. Post #52
    Gold Member

    March 2005
    3,028 Posts
    That scope is good for audio at most.
    Reading the specs, it's good enough for most low-speed serial communication, sensors, PWM, etc. That's all generally in the 100kHz range. If he's not interested in RF, then it's probably good enough.
    It wasn't too long ago that we were using 56K modems, and the carrier for those is audio frequency. There's definitely some neat stuff you could do if you think about it a little bit.

    It's not the scope I would buy (I'd try to get something >= 20MHz bandwidth), but I think you guys are being just a little bit over-critical.
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  13. Post #53
    www.bff-hab.de
    Dennab
    February 2009
    7,832 Posts
    I think it's too expensive though
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  14. Post #54
    Gold Member

    March 2005
    3,028 Posts
    I think it's too expensive though
    It's $100. The 50MHz Rigol is $400, if purchased new, and that's relatively low for such a scope. (This is an apples-to-oranges comparison, because of the differences in functionality, but there really aren't any other options at the absolute bare-minimum entry level, aside from used equipment)

    And even if it was unreasonably priced (which it isn't), that's still no reason to go "durr hurr, nice toy". You weren't giving useful input, you were being a cunt.
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  15. Post #55
    www.bff-hab.de
    Dennab
    February 2009
    7,832 Posts
    It's $100. The 50MHz Rigol is $400, if purchased new, and that's relatively low for such a scope. (This is an apples-to-oranges comparison, because of the differences in functionality, but there really aren't any other options at the absolute bare-minimum entry level, aside from used equipment)

    And even if it was unreasonably priced (which it isn't), that's still no reason to go "durr hurr, nice toy". You weren't giving useful input, you were being a cunt.
    You can get older DSOs for 150$.
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  16. Post #56
    Gold Member

    March 2005
    3,028 Posts
    USED

    I'm not saying used is a bad thing. I'd totally go for a used scope. But it isn't fair to compare the price of a new device with an old used device.
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  17. Post #57

    February 2012
    42 Posts
    Dammit

    Its like this thing was never intended to be hacked
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  18. Post #58
    www.bff-hab.de
    Dennab
    February 2009
    7,832 Posts
    USED

    I'm not saying used is a bad thing. I'd totally go for a used scope. But it isn't fair to compare the price of a new device with an old used device.
    How is that unfair if the old device is better than the new device?
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  19. Post #59
    Gold Member
    ddrl46's Avatar
    October 2007
    3,629 Posts
    It's only useful to about 100kHz, and you pay a lot more per MHz compared to the rigol.

    Edited:

    Dammit

    Its like this thing was never intended to be hacked
    Because it is.
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  20. Post #60
    Gold Member
    Chryseus's Avatar
    February 2009
    2,272 Posts
    http://stores.ebay.com/Thai-Shop-Etc Nice shop for cheap components.

    As for scopes like the DSO Nano they are totally not worth the price, the bandwidth and sampling memory is pretty horrible, overall barely adequate even for audio.
    And really if you're willing to spend $100 on such junk you might as well save up another $200 and get a new good quality scope, or simply buy a used scope, otherwise it's just wasted money.
    DSO Nano cost per 100kHz = $100
    Generic 20MHz analog scope cost per 100kHz = $0.2 (or less)
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  21. Post #61
    Gold Member

    March 2005
    3,028 Posts
    How is that unfair if the old device is better than the new device?
    That isn't the point at all. You're selecting the most irrelevant things to attack. I am not saying it is a substitute for a proper scope in many circumstances. My point, here, is that you are derailing the thread to make fun of someone's equipment after they've already purchased it. Nobody was looking for or giving hardware recommendations. It isn't the least bit helpful. It's spiteful and it's stupid.
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  22. Post #62
    Gold Member
    Chryseus's Avatar
    February 2009
    2,272 Posts
    Pretty much found everything I need to get started making PCBs.
    This is going to be fun.
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  23. Post #63
    Gold Member
    bobthe2lol's Avatar
    July 2007
    1,370 Posts
    I got an old comp psu, and I want to make it into a 12v benchtop thing. I tried following some tutorials online (never a good idea), so what I did was I separated all yellow and black wires, and stuck them into alligator clips. Then I took one black wire, and soldered it to one side of the power switch on the psu. Then I took the green wire (I think it was green), and soldered it to the other side. Then I plugged it in and turned it on. The 20A breaker for my room tripped. What did I do wrong?
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  24. Post #64
    www.bff-hab.de
    Dennab
    February 2009
    7,832 Posts
    I got an old comp psu, and I want to make it into a 12v benchtop thing. I tried following some tutorials online (never a good idea), so what I did was I separated all yellow and black wires, and stuck them into alligator clips. Then I took one black wire, and soldered it to one side of the power switch on the psu. Then I took the green wire (I think it was green), and soldered it to the other side. Then I plugged it in and turned it on. The 20A breaker for my room tripped. What did I do wrong?
    Seems like you used a PSU without a self-resetting fuse inside?
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  25. Post #65
    Gold Member
    VistaPOWA's Avatar
    October 2008
    8,370 Posts
    I hate eBay too.
    Found a really good auction (100 RGB LEDs, free shipping, starting bid at 0.99$), so yeah, I bid on it.

    I got overbid, so I decide to wait around for a bit. 30 seconds remain of the auction, I place a bid. For some reason eBay timed out and didn't register my bid. Fucking hell. The new auction that shop put up ends at March 5th, and he doesn't do free shipping anymore.

    Edited:

    I wonder, are chinese suppliers from Alibaba.com reliable?
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  26. Post #66
    Gold Member
    Zero-Point's Avatar
    March 2006
    6,514 Posts
    I got an old comp psu, and I want to make it into a 12v benchtop thing. I tried following some tutorials online (never a good idea), so what I did was I separated all yellow and black wires, and stuck them into alligator clips. Then I took one black wire, and soldered it to one side of the power switch on the psu. Then I took the green wire (I think it was green), and soldered it to the other side. Then I plugged it in and turned it on. The 20A breaker for my room tripped. What did I do wrong?
    If it was an old PSU from a brand-name PC (HP, Compaq, Dell, etc), then you need to double-check what the power-on wire is. They have a nasty tendency of switching wire colors on folks.
    Buuuut reading what you typed more closely, it seems you wired it to the power-on switch on the PSU itself, meaning you just ran line voltage into the power-on wire of the PSU.
    So, what you need to do is just take the green wire (if that really is your power-on wire) and any ground wire, and hook up its own, separate switch.
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  27. Post #67
    Gold Member
    ddrl46's Avatar
    October 2007
    3,629 Posts
    Managed to get my Commodore 1581 working again after some minor repairs!

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  28. Post #68

    February 2012
    42 Posts
    I think I'm going to solder some wires onto the flash of this thing and then manually dump/write it

    Hardware hacking is awesome
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  29. Post #69
    yngndrw's Avatar
    March 2008
    870 Posts
    I'm looking for an C++ AVR library which supports the ATMega2560, ideally it would support SPI, I2C, Uart, ADC, LCD, SD cards etc.

    No point in writing all that if somebody else has already done so. The libraries I've found don't support the ATMega2560.

    I'm also looking for suggestions on bootloaders for it. Any ideas ?
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  30. Post #70
    Gold Member
    bobthe2lol's Avatar
    July 2007
    1,370 Posts
    If it was an old PSU from a brand-name PC (HP, Compaq, Dell, etc), then you need to double-check what the power-on wire is. They have a nasty tendency of switching wire colors on folks.
    Buuuut reading what you typed more closely, it seems you wired it to the power-on switch on the PSU itself, meaning you just ran line voltage into the power-on wire of the PSU.
    So, what you need to do is just take the green wire (if that really is your power-on wire) and any ground wire, and hook up its own, separate switch.
    Oh. Haha, that would be it then. Thanks
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  31. Post #71
    Gold Member
    dije's Avatar
    December 2008
    4,631 Posts

    Still have to rewrite the code, since I use delay(); everywhere but I will make this with IC's on my model train layout
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  32. Post #72
    Gold Member
    ddrl46's Avatar
    October 2007
    3,629 Posts
    Oh. Haha, that would be it then. Thanks
    After having mains on the enable pin of the power supply I don't think it will work again.
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  33. Post #73
    Gold Member
    bobthe2lol's Avatar
    July 2007
    1,370 Posts
    After having mains on the enable pin of the power supply I don't think it will work again.
    Damn. At least it was only $10.
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  34. Post #74
    www.bff-hab.de
    Dennab
    February 2009
    7,832 Posts
    He said black cable... I though mains cables were blue and brown?

    Need more info to be helpful!
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  35. Post #75
    Gold Member
    bobthe2lol's Avatar
    July 2007
    1,370 Posts
    He said black cable... I though mains cables were blue and brown?

    Need more info to be helpful!
    No, I soldered a green wire to one side of the main power switch, and a black one to the other side. I think I probably fried it. There was some buzzing/sparks when I first tried it, then each time after it just tripped the breaker silently.
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  36. Post #76
    www.bff-hab.de
    Dennab
    February 2009
    7,832 Posts
    Uh, ok? Did you just take some switch or do you mean the switch inside the PSU on the backside...
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  37. Post #77
    Gold Member
    bobthe2lol's Avatar
    July 2007
    1,370 Posts
    Uh, ok? Did you just take some switch or do you mean the switch inside the PSU on the backside...
    The switch inside the psu, with some other bigass wires soldered to it.
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  38. Post #78

    February 2012
    42 Posts
    I just realized I will have to upgrade the flash in this thing for this to run properly, fuck

    I suck at soldering surface mounts

    Edited:

    Okey, apparantly the bootloader had some second stage loaded at some random location inside that flash

    I broke it, woop
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  39. Post #79
    yngndrw's Avatar
    March 2008
    870 Posts
    Think I'm going to get one of these kits:
    http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/cata...roducts_id=820

    I will still use my AVR for smaller projects, but for larger ones (Especially those requiring graphical displays and Ethernet), the .Net platform will allow for much faster development and it has a nice library.

    That and it's a full 32bit processor running at 72Mhz.

    This page shows how nice the development process, especially for rapid prototyping:
    http://www.ghielectronics.com/downlo...ettingStarted/

    When it comes time to making an actual product, they sell the main processing module separate:
    http://www.coolcomponents.co.uk/cata...roducts_id=846

    At 54 it is quite expensive so it only really an option for larger projects - But if graphical LCDs and Ethernet are involved, chances are it comes under the category of "larger project".
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  40. Post #80
    www.bff-hab.de
    Dennab
    February 2009
    7,832 Posts
    In my opinion it's microsoft trying to make electronics a plug-and-play type of developing process, and I personally don't like this at all. It constrains you in your possibilites.
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