1. Post #1121
    Gold Member
    Jenkem's Avatar
    June 2009
    2,620 Posts
    It occurs to me that I can already improve my mobility significantly by converting my VFC M4 to a 10" barrel, for about the same price as if I were to get a Galaxy MP5K.

    http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_inf...oducts_id=7299

    Would this be a good (inner) barrel option? I currently use a Madbull Black Python 6.03 in 363mm length, would like to further improve, rather than lose, my range while going to a shorter barrel if it's possible. I'm open to suggestions for barrels that don't cost $9001, too, so if the above resembles cat feces be sure to let me know.
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  2. Post #1122
    No such thing as overkill.
    catbarf's Avatar
    January 2007
    7,880 Posts
    That would probably work, as I've heard good things about Madbull barrels, but there are two concerns that jump out at me:

    -6.01s are more finicky, if you get anything in the barrel it'll jam. This is a serious consideration for an assault rifle.

    -I'm not sure that a tighter tightbore will really increase your range by much. It'll boost muzzle velocity a little, and if your gun's inaccurate it'll improve that (although if you're using a 6.03 that shouldn't be a problem), but range is more determined by your hop-up than your barrel.

    For just decreasing size I don't think you'll have any issues, I remember reading about how someone found that barrel length doesn't actually affect accuracy much so I doubt you'd lose any accuracy or range from going to a shorter barrel.
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  3. Post #1123
    Gold Member
    Jenkem's Avatar
    June 2009
    2,620 Posts
    Until yesterday my barrel was never cleaned once, or lubed, and it never had any trouble. Methinks a 6.01 is not something to be paranoid over, my friend who is a tech has one and it doesn't jam like people assume it does (he probably takes better care of his guns, but whatever). I won't be stuffing my barrel in the dirt, right...? Should it jam, I'll simply unjam it, or switch to my pistol if I have no time.

    My hop up setup is good for now, I would simply like tighter groupings.
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  4. Post #1124
    PAST TENSE DIG
    deathmog's Avatar
    October 2007
    7,697 Posts
    Systema Duracon Piston Head with bearings or Prometheus POM piston head? neeeeddd advice quick!
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  5. Post #1125
    POOP DICKS
    Dark Descent's Avatar
    August 2008
    4,902 Posts
    Notrabies, message me all the details about your big box o' g36, I'm def interested
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  6. Post #1126
    Taepodong-2's Avatar
    December 2009
    13,438 Posts
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  7. Post #1127
    NYES SSSS SSSS
    Kath's Avatar
    June 2007
    3,418 Posts
    I've heard they're pretty good, but do you guys recommend turnigy batteries? (And hobbyking chargers)
    Will this battery fit in a CM045?
    http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...SOFT_Pack.html

    http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...cessories.html
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  8. Post #1128
    POOP DICKS
    Dark Descent's Avatar
    August 2008
    4,902 Posts
    Yeah it'll fit
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  9. Post #1129
    NYES SSSS SSSS
    Kath's Avatar
    June 2007
    3,418 Posts
    How do you know? Are you Positive? In the reviews someone mentioned it not fitting into a VFC clone AKS74u
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  10. Post #1130
    POOP DICKS
    Dark Descent's Avatar
    August 2008
    4,902 Posts
    TM

    Edited:

    How do you know? Are you Positive? In the reviews someone mentioned it not fitting into a VFC clone AKS74u
    Then why are you stil looking at it. It might be a tight fit but the dimensions seem right. Just find a different battery.
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  11. Post #1131
    NYES SSSS SSSS
    Kath's Avatar
    June 2007
    3,418 Posts
    I don't know what other batteries will fit, because I'm not going to run a 1100 mAH 8.4 at 10 bbps. Unless I was told wrong that a 7.4 lipo is just slower than a 9.6 nimh, I'm trying to find a 7.4 that will fit and I know will pull a faster motor.
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  12. Post #1132
    POOP DICKS
    Dark Descent's Avatar
    August 2008
    4,902 Posts
    A stick battery, they make 11.1 and 7.4 sticks
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  13. Post #1133
    NYES SSSS SSSS
    Kath's Avatar
    June 2007
    3,418 Posts
    Would you direct me to one from Hobbyking?
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  14. Post #1134
    POOP DICKS
    Dark Descent's Avatar
    August 2008
    4,902 Posts
    http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...SOFT_Pack.html

    wanna touch tips now

    Edited:

    These are like the same dimension as the other battery. I really don't see how they wouldn't fit.
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  15. Post #1135
    NYES SSSS SSSS
    Kath's Avatar
    June 2007
    3,418 Posts
    That's an 11.1, wouldn't that murder a stock CM045?
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  16. Post #1136
    POOP DICKS
    Dark Descent's Avatar
    August 2008
    4,902 Posts
    It shouldn't, it'd just run bbs through it faster which ruins the bucking quicker and other parts.

    here's a 7.4 http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...SOFT_Pack.html
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  17. Post #1137
    Year_of_Lurking's Avatar
    June 2009
    465 Posts
    That's an 11.1, wouldn't that murder a stock CM045?
    I honestly wouldn't trust it. If it was me I would get a 7.4
    If you use semi only though I guess it wouldn't matter.
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  18. Post #1138
    NYES SSSS SSSS
    Kath's Avatar
    June 2007
    3,418 Posts
    Now is that charger I selected okay?
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  19. Post #1139
    No such thing as overkill.
    catbarf's Avatar
    January 2007
    7,880 Posts
    It shouldn't, it'd just run bbs through it faster which ruins the bucking quicker and other parts.
    This isn't my field of expertise, but I do know that running the parts faster doesn't just accelerate wear, it increases it, with higher stress on all the parts even per cycle. A stock CYMA won't last for the same number of shots with an 11.1V as from an 8.4V, for example. I'd be very, very wary of a stock clone gun using an 11.1V LiPo. It would probably get great performance- but only for a while before breaking, probably eating gears.

    At the very least, if you're going to use an 11.1, make sure to properly re-shim the gearbox as stock Chinese shimming is almost always terrible and the gun will not survive at high speed.
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  20. Post #1140
    scotty1
    Guest
    You need to shim and aoe, etc, and install a MOSFET before you can say that a chinese gun will last more than a thousand rounds on an 11.1 lipo.
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  21. Post #1141
    NYES SSSS SSSS
    Kath's Avatar
    June 2007
    3,418 Posts
    I don't know how to do any of that :/

    Again, though, is http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...cessories.html a good charger that would work with a 7.4 lipo? Also, should I ge one of those devices that beeps when my charge drops?
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  22. Post #1142
    scotty1
    Guest
    That charger is decent, but look for an imax one, those are really good. A lipo alarm is an ok purchase but a lot of times they malfunction, so whenever you notice trigger response lagging or a drop in rof, you know it is time to switch it out for another.
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  23. Post #1143
    Gold Member
    The Ultimate's Avatar
    May 2010
    3,088 Posts
    simpleboo and I also go to hsp

    Edited:

    I also forgot to mention but qqnmahreen also goes to hsp, he's not such a bad guy irl
    Hey, me and Krazipanda go there as well.
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  24. Post #1144
    scotty1
    Guest
    I have some nimh batteries I think are fully charged but I am not sure, haven't used them in about a week. Will hooking them up to a generic smart charger overcharge them if they are 100% charged?
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  25. Post #1145
    YEAH, AND?
    felix the cat's Avatar
    December 2010
    9,500 Posts
    Probably, because shit smart chargers use the battery's temperature to regulate how much it's charged
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  26. Post #1146
    Gold Member
    L_Dawg's Avatar
    December 2008
    2,252 Posts
    It should twist to lock back together
    It turns out, it broke into three pieces and the bit of the cap that was supposed to lock it into place broke off. Is it possible to get the wires replaced so I can get a normal fuse case with it?
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  27. Post #1147
    dagoth_ur's Avatar
    November 2009
    1,813 Posts
    I'm looking at maybe investing eventually in a airsoft LMG, what way do they operate? Battery?
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  28. Post #1148
    POLITICAN
    CubeManv2's Avatar
    August 2008
    7,075 Posts
    Battery, Gas, Air (Classic Guns)

    Your choice really, The most convient is battery, Classic guns are more convient then gas.
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  29. Post #1149
    10050's Avatar
    June 2008
    442 Posts
    How is the CYMA MK5 compared to a Galaxy brand with a metal body installed?
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  30. Post #1150
    Gold Member
    Jenkem's Avatar
    June 2009
    2,620 Posts
    What is an acceptable grouping on semi auto at 70 feet (assuming a well placed shot while standing ect.)? I'm getting about 3-4 inch groupings if I had to guess. How much total effective range should this net? My Systema bucking got damaged/worn or something and this is what another bucking raided off another gun is doing. I urgently need to know if this is even remotely near acceptable for field play, as this will determine whether my next game is CQB or not.
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  31. Post #1151
    Shotgun Guru
    notrabies's Avatar
    February 2009
    7,274 Posts
    How is the CYMA MK5 compared to a Galaxy brand with a metal body installed?
    Never seen a CYMA MP5, no idea.

    What is an acceptable grouping on semi auto at 70 feet (assuming a well placed shot while standing ect.)? I'm getting about 3-4 inch groupings if I had to guess. How much total effective range should this net? My Systema bucking got damaged/worn or something and this is what another bucking raided off another gun is doing. I urgently need to know if this is even remotely near acceptable for field play, as this will determine whether my next game is CQB or not.
    Uhh, groupings aren't really important. Accuracy by volume is the best solution most of the time. Odds are that people won't call your hits from long range anyways, so whether you play outside or not, treat it like you're playing CQB.
    Get as close as possible and lay down large amounts of fire, and whatever you do don't stand still.
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  32. Post #1152
    Gold Member
    Jenkem's Avatar
    June 2009
    2,620 Posts
    I'm pretty much on semi-only all the time, due to rules or just out of fear of my lipo causing my gun to go boom sooner. Suppose I have no option to get closer without being hit easily? The Saturday game is at a field with lots of open areas.

    Somehow it's shooting slightly better than my CA sportline which, for all it's faults, has very impressive stock range...do I need that little black clip thing that goes over the barrel on the hop up unit? It blocks my hop up unit from being pushed all the way into place now, though the whole assembly will fit just fine without it.
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  33. Post #1153
    Shotgun Guru
    notrabies's Avatar
    February 2009
    7,274 Posts
    That clip prevents the barrel from twisting, so its pretty important. Your bucking might be a bit long and interfering with its fit.

    The best way to get close is to do what people don't expect, the obvious. People aren't really prepared for runners, and few people can compensate properly, especially when you're on semi. All those DMR's will fail when you start running, trust me, for all my love of my SVD, its not that useful against sprinters.
    Running parallel to their lines and flanking is very handy, if possible move in a slow quarter circle. Run parallel to them but move slightly closer as you go. Most importantly, find any bits of cover you can and make them landmarks. A 2 foot deep trench is not bad at all. Most importantly, when you're running, the pressure's off your team so they'll be able to fire with ease. (whether they do or not is a different story)
    Also, try to get someone to run with you, at my last outdoor op, I led a charge which evened the entire field when 10-15 people stuck with me.
    Keep in mind, I'm doing this with a pistol and my MP5K, so there's not much accuracy going on, I just put people's heads down until I'm close enough to hit them. I used to do the same thing with my MAC-11, because that thing was really good at scaring people into cover, but I missed having lots of ammo.
    The best advice I can give is to just go through with it. Sometimes you'll get shot and accomplish nothing, but more often than not you can really mess with people.

    Edited:

    If there's no way to get closer, than do it anyways. There's always a backdoor somewhere.
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  34. Post #1154
    GOSH FUDGING DARNIT
    Fish Muffin's Avatar
    January 2008
    7,420 Posts
    i can confirm that when you run, you are nearly invincible.
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  35. Post #1155
    Gold Member
    Jenkem's Avatar
    June 2009
    2,620 Posts
    I know exactly what you mean by strafing = foil anything, even while moving slowly it seems to effectively make me impossible to hit.

    For additional reference, these two albums give some good reference to what I'll be in:

    http://www.bakholdinphotography.com/...3892&k=HVq4KC8

    http://www.bakholdinphotography.com/...553145&k=Tjiec

    (the first album is more accurate to what it looks like now, occasionally the mounds are moved, the bushes once got burned down by a pyro test and have since grown back, ect.)

    I switched barrels (was using the stock VFC one, now back to my madbull barrel) and the clip is working again. After a cleaning + lubing I'm shooting right again, seemingly, but I still seem to remember my gun shooting like a laser before. Anything I should do to maximize my range? New bucking/nub suggestions, ect.?
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  36. Post #1156
    Shotgun Guru
    notrabies's Avatar
    February 2009
    7,274 Posts
    Field pics are very handy, looks like you've got an easier time than I was expecting, although none of the pictures give a me a real idea of the scale of the place.
    Not sure if this link will work, but this looks pretty ideal for running in:
    http://www.bakholdinphotography.com/...gj3ps&lb=1&s=L

    If your other bucking is broken, replace it with the same kind if you can. There aren't any free/short term solutions for accuracy past what you've done. Just make sure the barrel is perfectly straight up so you're getting a minimum of fliers and that's all I can tell you.
    Look into one of the fancy cool things like flat and r hops when you have time and consider doing one of those. I know that evetunally I'm gonna get a TK twist barrel in my MP5K (If I can ever find one in stock) and that'll really help me throw down on some people.

    In fact, if you wanted, I'd consider letting you borrow my MP5K sometime so you could try it out before you buy one.
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  37. Post #1157
    Gold Member
    Jenkem's Avatar
    June 2009
    2,620 Posts
    Right now, if you're willing to crouch/go prone it's not too hard to avoid being hit simply due to the all the bushes.

    How perfectly straight up should it be? I still get fliers frequently, say every 5th shot, which veer off and miss the spot I'm aiming at by a good foot and some change. When putting the barrel in, I aligned the groove thingy as straight up as I could, though it might be off just a hair. Is that enough to be causing problems?
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  38. Post #1158
    PAST TENSE DIG
    deathmog's Avatar
    October 2007
    7,697 Posts
    Since my KWA SR-7 is being redone, I might look into the R-hop. Y/N for a KWA? I figured i'd want to get as much range and accuracy out of it as possible.
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  39. Post #1159
    Shotgun Guru
    notrabies's Avatar
    February 2009
    7,274 Posts
    Right now, if you're willing to crouch/go prone it's not too hard to avoid being hit simply due to the all the bushes.

    How perfectly straight up should it be? I still get fliers frequently, say every 5th shot, which veer off and miss the spot I'm aiming at by a good foot and some change. When putting the barrel in, I aligned the groove thingy as straight up as I could, though it might be off just a hair. Is that enough to be causing problems?
    Are all of your fliers going into the same direction? That's normally a sign your barrel's slightly off. Barrel alignment doesn't cause fliers, but it makes them more severe them by adding a left/right component to them. If your fliers aren't consistently to one direction, your barrel is probably not the issue.

    You should probably just look up a hop-up guide on a more comprehensive site so you can really figure things out for yourself. Most of my knowledge is just trial and error.

    Edited:

    Since my KWA SR-7 is being redone, I might look into the R-hop. Y/N for a KWA? I figured i'd want to get as much range and accuracy out of it as possible.
    I mean I guess, depends on your cash and stuff. It couldn't hurt if you keep all your old components.
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  40. Post #1160
    PAST TENSE DIG
    deathmog's Avatar
    October 2007
    7,697 Posts
    Well, I had to replace the pistonshit anyway, and I have a little bit of cash I was going to spend on a new bucking, think it'd be worth it? The reason I ask for the KWA is because I just realized that the KWA has a weird hopup or whatever
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