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Post #401
The vest part weighs next to nothing but distributes the weight evenly, and the armature is made out of machined aluminum with stainless fittings, so it weighs next to nothing too.
The tightening knobs even have little clutch mechanisms so you can rotate them out of the way without loosening them.
They are both separate kits. You can also use the vest to holster your camera. (Excellent when I'm on one of my hikes)
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I just bought my first DSLR, a Nikon D3100. I'm so excited!
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yay, bought an OM-10, came with the original box and manual and warranty and all, and works perfectly :D
Edited:
~OM system master race~
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I love my OM-10 so much. I have a few other much nice cameras, but 9/10 I'll pick up my Olympus instead of my other film cameras before leaving the house.
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Yay OM (only film camera I have/use. Until now)
Sprocket rocket arrived, my uncle took some pictures with half the roll, he's told me that I should use the other half then give it back to him so he could send the film to NY to be developed. Each shot takes up two spaces (so a roll with 32 exposures will only give 16 pictures). I only have one idea of what to take a picture of, and that requires careful timing and the bulb setting(which I don't know how to use properly).
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yeah, i love my om-1 as well, my favourite camera ever
this one is awesome too, but i think i'm gonna have to get used to checking the B-auto-manual adaptor switch often, on the first roll in this camera and already managed to lose two shots because i accidentally flipped it to bulb mode :(
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How far can I push my D3100's ISO while not having a ton of noise? I'm shooting fine medium size (like, 3000*2000) JPGs
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In general I wouldn't go past 1600.
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You can do 6400 if you know what you are doing
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Even when you know what you're doing, how are you going to avoid noise at 6400?
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Not wanting to avoid noise but I want the image to look good when downscaled to around half of the original size
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overexpose the image, or combine multiple of the same exposures (burst a couple shots, stitch them together).
noise is random, and in darker areas. overexposing gets rid of the noise in dark parts, by making it easier for the sensor to guess the correct color, and combining exposures will get rid of the noise being random.
i've taken clean shots at 6400.
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Spot healing set to content aware and at 1px.
Get to work.
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I'm looking for a relatively cheap camera which I can get close-ups of metal, wood, walls etc. I know nothing about cameras so help would be appreciated.
Use 'relatively cheap' as the price range, I don't know what is and isn't considered cheap.
Also general help with cameras would be helpful too, blame Dai if I've done something wrong too.
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Yes!
I replaced the backup battery on my Minolta 7000 a few days ago but it didn't work at first. Always turned off after pressing the shutter button and I thought I had broken it but today I went to try out the batterys on my xbox controller, just to realize they were empty. Put 4 fresh ones into my Minolta and it works just fine. So happy that I won't need a new analog slr. :)
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You'd really need to give us a budget of some sort but I'm pretty sure there are compact cameras that do okay macros
For the record (and because I like to brag) I fucking love the closeups I can get with my D3100's kit lens. It's amazing, specially after reading page after page of "why kit lenses are cheap and dark and plastic and shit" on review sites.
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For a average camera and a lens which can pull of decent closeups you're looking at around $600-$1000
Of course, you can go really cheap and do things like get extension tubes for kit lenses, but the quality might not be ideal.
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-snip-
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I got a shitload of Schneider Xenon f/0.95 C-mount lenses, and traded it for something else what suits me more.
So this (with the exception of the canon 11.5-90mm TV lens):
DSCF1524.jpg by Leevmeister, on Flickr
turned into this:
Canon 7s with 50mm f/0.95 "Dream Lens" (and 50mm f/1.8) by Leevmeister, on Flickr
Yes, i am very happy with that Canon 7s with the dream lens.
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Sexy.
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oh wow, nice! that's going to be a fun setup. i always wanted to get a c-mount 0.95, how much were the ones you got?
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I had these 0.95 lenses (all C mount):
4x Schneider Kreuznach Xenon 17mm f/0.95 (Obj.-Typ.: XN 0,95/17) with motorized Iris and spot filter
2x Schneider Kreuznach Xenon 25mm f/0.95 (Obj.-Typ.: Xenon 0,95/25 CP 100)
The 25mms would be easily adaptable on a M4/3 camera, and also on nex, but not with full coverage.
The 25mm lenses go for about 500 euros each on ebay.
As for the 17mm lenses, they have motorised irises, and are harder to adapt to any generic C mount because of it's size.
Well, you see that whole set on the first picture? I got all of that for under 100 euros (not saying the exact price).
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yeah i think nex you have to go at least 35mm, otherwise the circle is too small. but wow that's a great find, and nice job on the sales of all of them that's seriously so awesome.
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man i fucking want a d3100. and a 35mm lens. i really wnna start videography now that I'm fluent in photography.
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Going to order a 30mm 1.4 off of amazon. Finally no more manual focusing
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I am probably going to buy my friends Nikon D200 without a lens for $100. From what i can gather, that seems like a pretty awesome deal. I don't really know anything about cameras, but have always wanted to get a nice one. I just want to hear your guys opinions on it. What would be a good cheap lens(cheap is a big deal) should i get for starters?
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The 3100 is very very good at videos visually but the mic will pick up the tiniest wind (and the autofocus) and it doesn't have an external mic jack. It's passable when there's no wind, though. Or you can probably stick a piece of foam in front of it, or something.
So if your primary use for it is videos and you're looking to record sound along with them I'd suggest getting a different camera, getting something to record the sound externally and mix it with the video in post, or getting an used one, or (probably a bad idea because of impedance differences) cracking it open and adding a jack to it (which is probably what i'll do about a standard cable release jack as soon as my warranty expires)
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Ordered a 55-200mm Nikkor for $158 delivered. Plan to use it for some urban daytime shots.
Sweeeeet.
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Congrats on what is regarded by many as Nikon's best camera in it's category.
If cheap is that big of a deal, you can get the D3100's kit lens, the Nikon 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G AF-S DX VR, it's pure plastic, it's tiny, it's not very bright, it's a $100 kit lens and the manual focus ring feels weird to use, but the pictures it takes are fucking amazing (for a $100 kit lens) and the focal range allows for pretty nice wide angles. The VR allows you to take decent pictures freehand at slow speeds (I can shoot at about 1/30 with VR on and the picture still looks good). The macros also look great, which is good 'cause that's the first thing anyone does with an expensive camera
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If you're not hot about the camera doing most of the stuff for you you can go vintage and get an old all manual lens for cheap, I suppose. Here's a chart of what lenses work with it:
Take into account that I'm no expert on the subject and I'm randomly replying to threads at six AM, and that this post will probably get surgically autopsied and corrected by one of the wiser photographers in this subforum.
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Thank you, that was very helpful.
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I just got a D3100 as a replacement for the D60 I lost a year or so ago. I'm enjoying it, but it seems to be terrible in low light conditions compared to the D60. At ISO 100 in a well lit room I need to shoot at a 2 second shutter speed, that can't be right surely? Or is the ISO scaled differently with this camera? It has a lot less noise at higher ISO settings so that might be it. The video mode is baller as hell though.
I'm also having a problem with my nikon telephoto lens - it sometimes won't focus and instead makes a clicking sound. Is it fucked? It starts working if I manually twist the bits around but it's worrying.
Edit:
In reference to the above post, the kit lens is indeed spectacularly good for what it is.
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ISO 100 is ISO 100, it's a standard not for nothing!
Also ISO 100 unless you are using flood lights or something will require a very slow shutter speed indoors.
Chances are you have set a smaller aperture (or a slower lens all together) than what you remember using on your D60 or the lighting in the room is different.
Remember your eyes adjust to the light so it may seems bright to you but it's definitely not for the camera.
For the focusing do those lenses have motors in them? Perhaps they are on their last legs.
You should try cleaning the lens contacts (on the lens mount) with a Q-tip and alcohol and see if that does anything.
If you have access to another Nikon body (particularly one with a focusing motor in it) you should try the lenses on it and see if they work.
Hope this helped.
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Yeah, that's what I thought. I'm sure I could shoot in the same conditions at ISO 100 on my old camera, but I may be wrong. I'm talking bright sunlight coming through a window here, not just a bulb. It's perfectly fine outdoors though.ISO 100 is ISO 100, it's a standard not for nothing!
Also ISO 100 unless you are using flood lights or something will require a very slow shutter speed indoors.
Chances are you have set a smaller aperture (or a slower lens all together) than what you remember using on your D60 or the lighting in the room is different.
Remember your eyes adjust to the light so it may seems bright to you but it's definitely not for the camera.
For the focusing do those lenses have motors in them? Perhaps they are on their last legs.
You should try cleaning the lens contacts (on the lens mount) with a Q-tip and alcohol and see if that does anything.
If you have access to another Nikon body (particularly one with a focusing motor in it) you should try the lenses on it and see if they work.
Hope this helped.
The lens has a built in focusing motor, but it's relatively new so I doubt it's that. I had this problem with my lens with the D60 too. I don't think this lens is compatible with a motor in the body. I'll give cleaning the contacts a go - didn't think of that.
Edited:
I've used the video mode in very windy conditions and it's fine - the AF motor is really loud though yeah, I use manual focus to eliminate that problem. The continuous AF is terrible anyway. I notice quite a bit of noise in the videos I take - is there some setting somewhere I'm not aware of?
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I'm a manual focus guy, so autofocus isn't a problem. I'm good at switching angles mid-shooting and getting a subject in focus quickly.
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The D3100 is overall not for videography in my opinion, with the video being skippy instead of blurry because it reaches 30fps at most, and the integrated mic with no mic jack. It's just marketed as that because it's a d3000 with video recording and a couple other functions and improvements.
It should at least have a jack for an external mic. Seriously, how expensive is that to implement? (also, rant about it having a proprietary shutter cable connector and no infrared shutter release number one million.)
Edited:
Good luck with that with the d3100's kitlens, the focus ring has about an eight of a turn and it's really loose
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Light coming from outside is still not as bright as being outside though.
Never use AF in video, DSLRs are not camcorders you use them to get nice shots more than just recording moments.
You can use a silicon jar opener as a cheap follow focus. Like this.
Also use all manual and set your shutter speed as closely as double your FPS. (if you shoot at 24fps use 1/50, for 30fps 1/60 etc.)
The video being too skippy could be because you have a shutter speed too fast for the FPS (you get choppy motion like Saving Private Ryan) or simply you are trying to shoot action too fast for the FPS you have set.
Remember that pretty much all movies (a part from slowmo scenes) have been usually shot at 24FPS. (because it was the slowest they could go to keep the costs of film down)
Also for audio you can just use an external recorder and sync in post with the on board audio. (that's a standard for cinema too)
As I said before the problem is expecting a DSLR to be fast an easy like a camcorder, you can get great result if you know what you are dealing with and how to work with it. (which also means knowing it's shortcomings like moire, rolling shutter etc.)
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I got my Nikon D200 last night, and a lensbaby to borrow, just so i have a lens. This camera is so confusing, it's going to take a while to figure it out. I've been reading through the manual.
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I'll soon be picking up a refurbished 600D :)
It's my first DSLR, and I'm gonna be using it for both video and photos.
Excited!
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Is there anywhere I can read about what all these different mm sizes mean and how the pictures differ with different lens sizes?
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Basically the smaller the number in mm the bigger will your field of view be.
Some links.
Photos (same subject different focal lengths)
Same as above but interactive
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