1. Post #4321
    lady godiva's giant vaginas
    Metalcastr's Avatar
    May 2005
    1,898 Posts
    I have a case with 2 big front fans, 1 120mm in the back and 120mm on the side. The front fans blow air in and the back and side fans blow air out. I was planning on getting 2 extra fans on the top, I only have room for 2x120mm though. Should I make them blow in or out?
    In the front and side, out the top, because heat rises. What speed are the fans? If they're really slow, they're not moving enough air. There should be a significant quantity of air moving in and out, not just a small poof. Cases often come with really shit fans, that are quiet but don't move air. If you don't know what kind of fan came with your case, research online to find their RPM.

    Finally if the fans are plugged into the motherboard, make sure there is a fan speed profile that puts them at full power sooner than later. If they're plugged directly into your power supply, they're already at 100% all the time.

    In short, slow crappy fans don't cut it for today's beastly hot computers. Remember that the electronic components themselves are hotter than the air coming out of your case, which is why you need lots of airflow.
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  2. Post #4322
    Gold Member
    Levelog's Avatar
    September 2013
    18,925 Posts
    Heat rises doesn't really apply within the small confines of a computer case, this has been tested. Most cases nowadays are designed for positive pressure so you should have all intake besides rear exhaust. Side fan depends on your GPU though, reference cards should be intake and nonreference should be exhaust. Today's components run cooler than ever.

  3. Post #4323
    Gold Member
    supervoltage's Avatar
    November 2009
    771 Posts
    I got all the parts for my girlfriend's mini-ITX build today and I couldn't get over how absolutely tiny the motherboard was. Technology is really quite amazing.

    Then I got into actually putting everything together and oh my god it's so frustrating. Eventually I managed to cram everything inside and got the cables out of the way of fans with the help of cable ties. I couldn't believe how tight everything got to be inside the case with the PSU being on top of the CPU fan, the side-mounted HDD nearly hugging the GPU and the thick ATX cables from the PSU making the PC look like it's got guts for cables.

    All in all it was one of those "fun" experiences. Would probably do it again.

  4. Post #4324
    HeinrichHeine's Avatar
    January 2014
    151 Posts
    Guys, I'm looking for a 1080p 144hz gaming monitor, any suggestions? I don't want to spend more than 300?!

  5. Post #4325
    Gold Member
    Revenge282's Avatar
    July 2007
    3,071 Posts
    VG248QE
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  6. Post #4326
    Dennab
    October 2016
    1,897 Posts
    So I thought planning and drilling holes on the top of my new case to mount the reservoir and fill port was going to be the hardest and shittiest part of my new build. Nah, it's figuring out where to mount the fucking pump because the Phanteks p400s doesn't have anywhere good to mount a fucking pump. I'm probably going to have to fab something that mounts to where the front case fans would go, idk.
    There just isn't anywhere good. Their "modular expansion slots" area is fucking trash because there's this perfect spot for a pump but nah, removable plastic tabs go there and they're only held in by 1 screw so uhh, no thanks. I guess I could always just bolt in a brace behind the plastic tab, that'd work okay.

  7. Post #4327
    HeinrichHeine's Avatar
    January 2014
    151 Posts
    What about the BenQ ZOWIE XL2430?

  8. Post #4328
    lady godiva's giant vaginas
    Metalcastr's Avatar
    May 2005
    1,898 Posts
    Heat rises doesn't really apply within the small confines of a computer case, this has been tested. Most cases nowadays are designed for positive pressure so you should have all intake besides rear exhaust. Side fan depends on your GPU though, reference cards should be intake and nonreference should be exhaust. Today's components run cooler than ever.
    All intake will mean your rear exhaust is really loud to make up for the CFM-in. That's why I use top exhaust as well. Today's components run hot and use more power than ever before. At full load GPUs produce a lot of heat, and CPUs too. A 250-watt GPU and a 95-watt CPU make a lot of heat that must be exhausted. RAM sticks and mobo components get warm too. I design my case with full load in mind. Take a look at some infrared thermal images of motherboards, there's heat going on.

    As for side exhaust, that can help with non-reference GPU heat, I agree.

    Also are you talking about under no load or full load? Today's components throttle better than ever before, no load everything is cool, full load produces a lot of heat though.

  9. Post #4329
    Gold Member
    helifreak's Avatar
    May 2011
    7,309 Posts
    All intake will mean your rear exhaust is really loud to make up for the CFM-in. That's why I use top exhaust as well. Today's components run hot and use more power than ever before. At full load GPUs produce a lot of heat, and CPUs too. A 250-watt GPU and a 95-watt CPU make a lot of heat that must be exhausted. RAM sticks and mobo components get warm too. I design my case with full load in mind. Take a look at some infrared thermal images of motherboards, there's heat going on.

    As for side exhaust, that can help with non-reference GPU heat, I agree.

    Also are you talking about under no load or full load? Today's components throttle better than ever before, no load everything is cool, full load produces a lot of heat though.
    GPU power usage has definitely gone down over the years, my GTX 460 was 160w, my 570 was 220w and my 1060 is only 120w (and only has the single 6 pin instead of 2x6/6+8)
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  10. Post #4330

    March 2017
    672 Posts
    I got all the parts for my girlfriend's mini-ITX build today and I couldn't get over how absolutely tiny the motherboard was. Technology is really quite amazing.

    Then I got into actually putting everything together and oh my god it's so frustrating. Eventually I managed to cram everything inside and got the cables out of the way of fans with the help of cable ties. I couldn't believe how tight everything got to be inside the case with the PSU being on top of the CPU fan, the side-mounted HDD nearly hugging the GPU and the thick ATX cables from the PSU making the PC look like it's got guts for cables.

    All in all it was one of those "fun" experiences. Would probably do it again.
    I'm doing the exact same. building my gf a ryzen mini itx and shoving the beefiest blower style gpu in, it's going to get hot but only going to run at stock clocks

  11. Post #4331
    Dennab
    October 2016
    1,897 Posts
    All intake will mean your rear exhaust is really loud to make up for the CFM-in. That's why I use top exhaust as well. Today's components run hot and use more power than ever before. At full load GPUs produce a lot of heat, and CPUs too. A 250-watt GPU and a 95-watt CPU make a lot of heat that must be exhausted. RAM sticks and mobo components get warm too. I design my case with full load in mind. Take a look at some infrared thermal images of motherboards, there's heat going on.

    As for side exhaust, that can help with non-reference GPU heat, I agree.

    Also are you talking about under no load or full load? Today's components throttle better than ever before, no load everything is cool, full load produces a lot of heat though.
    Mate, todays shit is fucking cold in comparison. My 8800 ultra could fry eggs, that's as powerful as a gtx 250, a budget card from like 2012. We're not running /that/ much hotter, if anything components are cooler. Shit my 1070 draws less power than the 8800 did, 150w vs 171w and the 1070 has at least a 3x faster base clock to boot.
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  12. Post #4332
    Gold Member
    Levelog's Avatar
    September 2013
    18,925 Posts
    Yep, TDP nowadays is way down. For processors and GPU's. And yeah the rest of the components need some airflow, but not some crazy amount. If you've seen the thermal imaging you talk about you know that. If you case is meant for positive pressure and you're not doing that you're defeating that case engineering design you paid for.

  13. Post #4333
    Gold Member
    huntingrifle's Avatar
    January 2009
    2,872 Posts
    I thought it was best practice to have equal pressure airflow? Like slightly more positive pressure than negative pressure (60/40 positive to negative).
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  14. Post #4334
    Gold Member
    Levelog's Avatar
    September 2013
    18,925 Posts
    All depends on case design

    Edited:

    And cooling choices

  15. Post #4335
    Dennab
    October 2016
    1,897 Posts
    In theory negative pressure is better anyway unless the case is designed for positive pressure, which most of them are so that's irrelevant anyway.
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  16. Post #4336

    March 2017
    672 Posts
    always go positive pressure. negative pressure causes dust buildup and will make cleans more regular, seems dumb as hell and a bad design if you are required to do negative pressure. Unless there's dust filters on every potential intake which would be retarded and ruin air flow.

    basically just put dust filters over intakes, and make sure you are pumping more air in than out.
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  17. Post #4337
    Dennab
    October 2016
    1,897 Posts
    Well yeah, but where dust isn't a problem negative pressure technically puts more flow over specific areas than positive pressure does. Anyway, as I said the theoretical gains are entirely irrelevant due to case design and application anyway.
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  18. Post #4338
    Gold Member
    fishyfish777's Avatar
    November 2007
    7,121 Posts
    Do intake dust filters even make a significant dent in dust over time

    They impede airflow to the point that it requires a more powerful (and louder) fan to pull the same amount of air through and there's noise pulling air through the filter too.

    I have honestly never noticed a difference between having those installed and just running a lower RPM fan (for dust accumulation, not things like machine shop PCs that have to avoid ingesting crap)

  19. Post #4339
    Gold Member
    Del91's Avatar
    October 2010
    15,560 Posts
    the amount of dust I've pulled off of my dust filters is enough to convince me to keep a filter on.


    So, if I manually set my vcore too low, everything reads my cpu at 1.55GHZ and won't read the speed I've set in bios until I reset my vcore to auto, which according to Ryzen master is like 1.237v



    I've tried manually setting it to 1.2, 1.23, 1.25v etc. and everything reads it at 1.55GHZ

    My RAM is running at 2934mhz according to Ryzen master at least though.
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  20. Post #4340
    Gold Member
    huntingrifle's Avatar
    January 2009
    2,872 Posts
    the amount of dust I've pulled off of my dust filters is enough to convince me to keep a filter on.


    So, if I manually set my vcore too low, everything reads my cpu at 1.55GHZ and won't read the speed I've set in bios until I reset my vcore to auto, which according to Ryzen master is like 1.237v



    I've tried manually setting it to 1.2, 1.23, 1.25v etc. and everything reads it at 1.55GHZ

    My RAM is running at 2934mhz according to Ryzen master at least though.
    Have you tried resetting the profile in the BIOS to default, not just the vcore? Could be something when you updated your BIOS, and I've seen quite a few techtubers report something similar after they updated their BIOS or had clock speed issues.

    You can also try resetting the CMOS if that doesn't work.

  21. Post #4341
    Gold Member
    Del91's Avatar
    October 2010
    15,560 Posts
    I reset to optimized defaults through bios, but haven't hit the cmos reset button yet. Seems ok now, just weird.

    Edited:

    It is reporting it's overclock now as long as I don't set the vcore too low if that wasn't clear.

    Ryzen master reports a vcore of 1.0 and 1.55ghz when things get screwy

  22. Post #4342
    Dennab
    October 2016
    1,897 Posts
    Do intake dust filters even make a significant dent in dust over time

    They impede airflow to the point that it requires a more powerful (and louder) fan to pull the same amount of air through and there's noise pulling air through the filter too.

    I have honestly never noticed a difference between having those installed and just running a lower RPM fan (for dust accumulation, not things like machine shop PCs that have to avoid ingesting crap)
    Yes. A good dust filter is better than no filter. Just clean the things and tbh you're not being /that/ restricted versus the price of ruining your expensive components. If you own even one pet you'd be surprised how much pet hair you'll pull from intake filters. Especially if your PC is anywhere near the floor. Removing dust filters is basically just inviting in trouble imo.

    It isn't like cleaning a few removable filters is that much of a big deal either. Better than having to drag your case out to dust it every two months.

  23. Post #4343

    March 2017
    672 Posts
    Well yeah, but where dust isn't a problem negative pressure technically puts more flow over specific areas than positive pressure does. Anyway, as I said the theoretical gains are entirely irrelevant due to case design and application anyway.
    Positive pressure pretty much always trumps negative pressure due to it being a negligible difference between temps of positive vs negative.

    Plus who the hell likes dust?

  24. Post #4344
    Gold Member
    taipan's Avatar
    September 2005
    6,800 Posts
    Guys, I'm looking for a 1080p 144hz gaming monitor, any suggestions? I don't want to spend more than 300?!
    The Samsung 24FG70 has an MVA panel and Qdot for better colors and is now 298$.

  25. Post #4345
    Gold Member
    PotatoArmada's Avatar
    November 2010
    9,218 Posts
    I'm thinking about getting a ryzen 5 1600x since I already have an air cooler and can spare the extra cash. Is there any place that are still selling bracket upgrade kits for the CM Hyper 212 evo heatsink?

  26. Post #4346
    Gold Member
    AugustBurnsRed's Avatar
    May 2009
    6,066 Posts
    I'm thinking about getting a ryzen 5 1600x since I already have an air cooler and can spare the extra cash. Is there any place that are still selling bracket upgrade kits for the CM Hyper 212 evo heatsink?
    You can only point it vertically with that shitty bracket, either pulling hot air over the GPU or throwing CPU heat at the GPU. The Cryorig H7 is a little spendier, looks nicer and the AM4 bracket lets you point it normally. Have to screw it in from behind the board though.
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  27. Post #4347
    Gold Member
    Havolis's Avatar
    November 2012
    3,296 Posts
    Hi guys, I'm building a new pc and my budget is around $1000. I will order my parts from this website located in my country: http://pcandparts.com/price.htm (excuse the really shitty web designing)

    Which PC is the best I can build with the choices I have? Also if a certain product that you guys have in mind is out of stock or not listed at all, let me know so I can see if I can get it from some other store here. Thanks!

  28. Post #4348
    Holylucifer6's Avatar
    July 2008
    149 Posts
    This is why i recommend a ryzen 5 1600 over the intel i5 7600k.





    https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/posts/31051744

    The video is here > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4RMbYe4X2LI .

  29. Post #4349
    Gold Member
    AugustBurnsRed's Avatar
    May 2009
    6,066 Posts
    This is why i recommend a ryzen 5 1600 over the intel i5 7600k.

    *hueg pics*

    https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/posts/31051744

    The video is here > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4RMbYe4X2LI .
    Well it's no secret that games that use lots of threads are going to see higher performance on Ryzen 5, since it has triple the threads of an i5. They're about 0-15% behind intel clock for clock depending on the task and they don't OC past 4.2GHz in the real world so intel can pull way ahead on single cores with OCing.

    I do agree that an Intel purchase right now is a waste of money, unless you really only need 4c on an i5 or 4c8t on an i7, and you need the absolute maximum performance from those few cores. Basically gamers with 120hz+ monitors whose main squeeze is a poorly or non-mulithreaded title. I get along just fine on my 1700X and I couldn't go back to fewer than 8 cores tbh.
    Yes they're faster clock for clock, but the price premium is not worth it for any other use case IMO. Coffee Lake should shake things up a bit, but AMD is moving to 7nm next year for Zen 2, while Intel will be on their new 10nm process for at least two generations, starting 2018 with mobile chips.

  30. Post #4350
    Gold Member
    PotatoArmada's Avatar
    November 2010
    9,218 Posts
    You can only point it vertically with that shitty bracket, either pulling hot air over the GPU or throwing CPU heat at the GPU. The Cryorig H7 is a little spendier, looks nicer and the AM4 bracket lets you point it normally. Have to screw it in from behind the board though.
    That seems really silly. I'll settle for getting the cryorig.

    I'm thinking about pulling the trigger then, how does this sound for $600 budget? I already have a gpu and psu.

    https://pcpartpicker.com/list/mtxVpb

  31. Post #4351
    Gold Member
    AugustBurnsRed's Avatar
    May 2009
    6,066 Posts
    That seems really silly. I'll settle for getting the cryorig.

    I'm thinking about pulling the trigger then, how does this sound for $600 budget? I already have a gpu and psu.

    https://pcpartpicker.com/list/mtxVpb
    If you're OCing save some money and get the 1600, and make sure the B350 board has everything you need. My first board was B350 but I ended up needing more connectors it didn't have so I went to X370.

  32. Post #4352
    Gold Member
    richard9311's Avatar
    February 2006
    3,638 Posts

  33. Post #4353

    March 2017
    672 Posts
    oh boy.

    shop I sent psu back for making electrical bubbling noises and coil whine gpu and buzzing pump straight up saying they couldn't reproduce it.

    what the fuck lmao

    didn't want to be a douche and start dick waving consumer law at them about fit for purpose, major fault wouldn't make me buy in the first place etc, but they don't give me a choice when they just can't be assed replacing defective products.
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  34. Post #4354
    Fox Powers's Avatar
    January 2014
    2,564 Posts
    Theorically what could be better, a 1500X with a GTX 1060 or a 1600 with a RX 570?

  35. Post #4355
    Something loli Please no dont post pussy toxxes, go hard or go home gays promise ahahahahaahah dick tape balls trump
    Kiwi's Avatar
    September 2011
    26,633 Posts
    Theorically what could be better, a 1500X with a GTX 1060 or a 1600 with a RX 570?
    1600 with 1060. The extra threads will allow you to grow into games that are being optimized for this.

  36. Post #4356
    child porn prodigy
    venom's Avatar
    April 2005
    17,035 Posts
    What's the first thing I need to upgrade on my build? I assume the CPU? What should I replace it with?

    * Asus Z97-A LGA1150 Socket
    * i5 4690 (liquid cooled)
    * Strix 1070OC
    * EVGA - SuperNOVA 650W
    * 8gb RAM (4x2)

  37. Post #4357
    Gold Member
    AugustBurnsRed's Avatar
    May 2009
    6,066 Posts
    What's the first thing I need to upgrade on my build? I assume the CPU? What should I replace it with?
    R7 1700 or R5 1600 if you want more cores, i7-7700k or i5-7600k if you don't. If you go Ryzen make sure you get the fastest DDR4 your board will handle, and for speeds over 2667 you can only have 2 DIMMs currently.

    Edited:

    I should note that the Ryzen processors would be about equal performance or slightly better than haswell so you'd only be adding cores/threads where the Kaby Lake parts are about 0-15% faster than ryzen per core dependent on task

  38. Post #4358
    child porn prodigy
    venom's Avatar
    April 2005
    17,035 Posts
    I've always been an Intel kid but the Ryzens look neat af. Unfortunately I don't know shit about the inner workings of the CPU so I'm pretty lost on the Kaby Lake v Ryzen situation

  39. Post #4359

    March 2017
    672 Posts
    I've always been an Intel kid but the Ryzens look neat af. Unfortunately I don't know shit about the inner workings of the CPU so I'm pretty lost on the Kaby Lake v Ryzen situation
    I'd go Intel if you plan on getting 7700k. just beware of the shitgrease they use under ihs
    ryzen for anything else

    or just wait until Intel's newer generations come out to compete.

  40. Post #4360
    Gold Member
    Atlascore's Avatar
    June 2011
    10,281 Posts
    I've always been an Intel kid but the Ryzens look neat af. Unfortunately I don't know shit about the inner workings of the CPU so I'm pretty lost on the Kaby Lake v Ryzen situation
    It depends on what you use your PC for.

    Productivity & mid-range gaming = Ryzen.
    High end gaming (e.g. 144hz monitor, 1080 Ti) = Intel, specifically the 7700k.