airsoft regulars, we should make a new, ~joint ops~ thread since this one is bad
airsoft regulars, we should make a new, ~joint ops~ thread since this one is bad
This thread should be unstickied and someone writes a more up to date one. For all the newcomers.
I nominate...Darksamus, Stupideye, Ender, or Kawaii. Or each writes one big post about their view and then We have that thread stickied. That would make for an interesting read.
I nominate me or Ender or Fragmatic, but i think the ladder idea would be better.
right now im busy if I get bored enough i will write one/my part
your welcome to my UKARA thing that i wrote in the first questions thread
"Right my specialist area :P (i guess being a brit is handy) UKARA is basically a license that restricts RIF's (Realistic Imitation Firearms) to comply with the VCRA (a really big law about weapons)you have to be UKARA registered to purchase a RIF however this can be avoided because you can get your airsoft weapon in Two-Tone which is painting half the weapon in a bright colour (mostly bright green, blue or blaze orange) this means you can purchase the weapon without having the UKARA license but you still have to be over 18 to purchase them. you can get UKARA registered from any of the skirmish sites you go to aslong as your over 18 and have played there for atleast 3 times in two months.
Some good websites to purchase Two-Tone weapons from are:
www.zerooneairsoft.co.uk - will spray paint any weapon two tone for FREE
www.actionhobbies.co.uk - has a selection of specially made two tone weapons
www.airsoftworld.co.uk - same as above and apparently two tone any weapon other than GBB for 20 quid
www.surplusstore.co.uk - has a wide selection of Two-Tone weapons and various other bits and bobs
www.fire-support.co.uk - has a small selection of non-UKARA (another term for Two-Tone) which apparently will also two tone any weapon for 15 quid if asked by email
Non-UKARA weapons are either Two-Tone weapons as stated above or even with a clear plastic body but i highly recommend getting the Two-Tone weapons since I have had really bad experiences with clear plastic weapons as they almost always break very quickly (and you can get metal two tones) also, dont quote me on this because theres apparently a crack-down on this at the moment here in the North-East but you can spray your Two-Tone weapon back to black after you have bought it because the police cant really do anything after it has been purchased. Also ask the guy who runs your local game site what he thinks, some sites ban people who spray their weapons ALWAYS ASK! no point in paying loads for a new weapon you will never be able to use... just dont be stupid and point it at them or there will be loads of armed police showing up.
Thank You And Goodnight!"
as far as i know its still up to date and nothings changed (ive added a little bit about asking the game site owner since some sites ban for painting two tones)
UKARA needs to be removed tbh
so a few chavs robbed a store with an airsoft gun so what atleast they didn't have a real gun
-snip- doesn't matter I found out that two tone weapons anyone at the legal age limit can get because they look different from a real gun.
If you are new to airsoft, realize what you chose as your first gun is probably not very good, if you came here to ask questions don't be afraid of the answers you get, because believe it or not we try to help people out. Now that we've gotten that out of the way, i'll attempt to bust some myths about airsoft.
Longer (not tighter) barrels = More FPS
False, if you have too long of a barrel you create an area of low pressure behind the BB, sucking it back.
Tighter (not longer) barrels = More FPS
True, you create a tighter seal for the BB, making it hard for air to go around, pushing the BB.
Sniping = 1 shot 1 kill!!1
Debatable. In a perfect world, yes, but if you're far enough to "snipe" chances are the person won't feel the BB, or they won't even know what the hell hit them and not call it. Besides, you should primarily be helping your team by telling them where the bad guys are.
If a gun is cheap it sucks
False, while Systema makes some really nice guns, it's pretty easy to get better performance out of a cheaper AEG with some upgrades.
False, modern lipos do not explode, no matter what charger you use.
Green gas is better than propane!
False, at least economically, propane might be a little bit more complicated but in the end it's a hell of a lot cheaper.
4.5mm plastic BBs exist.
False, no they don't, shut up.
The heavier the BB the more it hurts!!
True, the more mass a BB has the slower it will move, but the impact it creates in Joules is greater.
Pistols are useless.
Debatable, this is entirely situational. If you're in a field environment you probably won't need one.
TM guns are impossible to break!
False, while the TM Famas is fucking legendary, the M4s they create often snap.
Green gas explodes if you shoot it near a light bulb.
False, the chances of this happening are possibly equal to being struck with lightning 3 times in a row.
Shotguns are useless
False, not only are they not useless, and the best "noob" weapon you can get, they are fun as shit.
FINDING THE RIGHT WEAPON FOR YOU.
First, start with a budget. Do you only have $30 to spend? Save up.
What about $90? Save up/get a DE/TSD Multishot shotgun.
$150? Get a mid range AEG with some magazines.
and so on.
Next thing you need to find out is what do you prefer?
The all american M16 pattern rifle? The russian AK47? Do you want an assault rifle? Do you want a DMR? What about an LMG? Which LMG? What are the availability of spare parts, accessories, and magazines? If you have a team then what do they use? Do you want to be able to toss magazines to eachother?
So, if you have a question as to what rifle you want, make sure you include what type of of gun, what pattern, and what your budget is, and what expectations you have.
"Hey guys, I want a smallish framed assault rifle, I was thinking a G36C, I have $214.99 to spend and I want a gun that will last a long time and blowback."
DOs and DON'Ts
DO always practice safety, not that I want to sound like an after-school special but safety is extremely important. Not only for you, but for the sport/hobby on a whole. Think of it this way, if you were to walk into a diner to grab a bite to eat with your friends right after a day of airsofting, you should probably leave your weapons in the car. Safety doesn't stop there either, make sure you ALWAYS wear full seal goggles. I have first hand seen someone take a BB to the eye from a ricochet off the cheek into the glasses, and it is not a fun day.
DO always use good BBs. If you want a gun to last a long time, never settle for those walmart clear .12s. They are cheap, but they will break in your gun. Always make sure the BBs you buy are Polished.
DO call hits. Seriously, if theres one thing thats shitty is knowing someone who doesn't call hits.
DO NOT shoot people who are already out on purpose. Self explanatory.
DO NOT open up a gearbox if you aren't prepared to spend a long time putting it back together (especially if it's your first time)
DO NOT keep your gun's spring compressed for long periods of time, an easy way to remedy this is to flip your gun to full auto and carefully, slowly pull the trigger until it fires. If done right, the gun shouldn't have compressed the spring at all.
DO NOT shoot at animals. Self explanatory.
DO NOT shoot at refs. Self explanatory.
Rules for your field probably vary, make sure you always observe rules.
In the end, for this section it will mainly be personal opinion. But always consider:
How hot is it where you live? How mobile do you want to be? What are you carrying?
Always get a look at where you play airsoft before choosing a camo pattern, if any, for example:
I live in a place that snows, ACU would probably work well here.
Comms (radios) are important to have, and I don't mean only for tactics (it's primary use), they are useful for letting your teammates know if someone is out, if the game is over, etc. Don't skimp on quality for microphones and radios either, expect to spend around $50 for one basic unit.
PS, Throat mics: I have never seen one that works well, don't bother with them.
Whether it's 120 degrees or -34 degrees outside, hydration via a camel back, water bottle, or canteen is important, remember to have something to drink with you.
Always a fantastic idea, just grab a bandana, preferably red or another bright color, pull it out and put it on your head when you're out.
In the end, it's important to have fun. Make sure what you get is what you want, if possible get a friend to let you borrow an airsoft gun to get a feel for what you want.
WHERE ARE UR SAUSES
Field rules take precedence over those rules right?
Those rules are just decency/common sense.
EXCUSE ME AS I BLATANTLY REPOST SOME INFORMATION FROM SOMEWHERE ELSE
So you wanna try to open your gearbox?
Then this information is for you!
NOTE: www.Mechbox.com and www.Airsoftgi.com also offer great diagrams and information about gearboxes and AEG maintenance.
- Many of us have had the question and have asked "What should I upgrade First?"
This Guide was created in effort to help new players understand
more about what happens in an Airsoft Gun and what to recognize when
considering upgrading parts.
Follow these guidelines and you'll be aware of how a gearbox and hop up works,
have a better understanding of how to repair your gun, and ultimately
identify how to tailor the gearbox to your needs.
Before I go on, here are some things you MUST realize.
* FPS is Overrated.
* The Fastest Gun isn't always the best gun.
* The Longest Barrel Doesn't mean you'll have the most accurate gun.
* You can spend $500 on a gun and still have it perform worse than someone who spent $30.
*Gearboxes don’t last forever; you will have to eventually replace parts. Especially when Upgrading.
Be Prepared to repair your gearbox.
*DO NOT EXPECT to upgrade a cheap base gun with $300 only to find out it is not cost effective and your Gearbox chassis Cracks.
*Make sure you upgrade with a 100% to 110% Ratio. Head Room of Stronger Gears is even better. (eg.
If your motor/spring is running at 120%, then your gears better be able to handle 130% or better.)
1 - Understand the gearbox Anatomy.
2 - Understand how the gearbox works
3 - Understand the gearbox weaknesses
4 - Understand the Hop Up System
5 - Understand Barrel lengths in relation to Accuracy and Consistency.
UNDERSTANDING THE GEARBOX ANATOMY
Take a look at the Gearbox Anatomy of a Version 2 Gearbox. (Kindly taken from Airsoftgi)
This Gearbox is found in M16, M4, G3, and MP5 Variants. (MP5k features
a modified Version 2 Gearbox.)
Motor – The initial source of Energy that’s transferred to the Gearbox. Torque and High speed are two of the performance types that we see on the market. Many players often settle for EG1000 by Tokyo Mauri.
Bevel Gear - This Gear is where the Motor (Pinion Gear) begins to make contact with the rest of the other gears. Underneath of this gear is an “Anti Reversal Latch” (fig. A). The anti reversal latch simply keeps the gears from going backward after every incomplete shot, not having one will risks the gears coming out of sync and damaging most of the moving parts in the gearbox.
Spur Gear – Connection Gear to the Sector Gear.
Sector Gear – Pulls back Piston and Tappet Plate. Sector gears are not completely covered in teeth. When the teeth run out the piston is let go.
Bushings – Bushings are the bearings that keep your gears in place. It is important to have bushings that can take the stress of upgraded parts. If bushings are not strong enough to handle the stress then they will simply fall in and gear teeth will most likely be damaged. However, most AEGs on the market today come with Metal bushings which is all that is required for 99% of upgraded setups out there.
Piston – The Piston Is pulled back by the Sector gear which is held under tension of the
Spring. The Job of the piston is to basically create an air gap, compress, and force out the air through the
Cylinder Head. There is a vast array of Pistons made from Aluminum to Polycarbonate. Different materials offer
more durability. Stock Pistons are usually plastic.
Piston Head – Basically seals the air gap (With a Rubber O Ring that is around the Cylinder) that is created between the Cylinder Head and the Piston Head.
Cylinder – Where the air is compressed.
Spring – This puts the Piston under tension. The Higher the Percentage the faster/Stronger the piston will fly forward creating more air that escapes out of the Cylinder Head. A Brute force solution to achieve higher FPS, but in turn you get lower Rate of Fire.
Spring Guide – When the piston is pulled back the Spring coils up. The Spring Guide keeps the spring
nice and straight.
Air Nozzle – Is pulled back by the Tappet Plate (fig. B) which allows the next BB to "Chamber" into the Hop Up system.
Hop up – The Hop up Unit is what produces Spin on the BB; creating range. See below
"How a hop up system works" for details.
Figure A - Anti Reversal Latch
Figure B - Tappet Plate
HOW THE GEARBOX WORKS
Below are general steps of how a gearbox creates air pressure for your gun to fire a BB.
- A Trigger system completes a circuit when pulled.
- The Motor Turns the Pinion Gear (That’s attached to the motor)
- The Pinion Gear Turns the Bevel Gear
- The Bevel Gear Turns the Spur Gear
- The Spur Gear Turns the Sector Gear
- The Sector Gear Pulls back two things.
* The Piston ( which is under tension of the Spring)
** The Tappet Plate which allows the BB to “chamber” into the hopup.
- The Piston Head slides (or shall I say.. Fly.) in the Cylinder creating Air which escapes through the Cylinder Head
MOSFET(metal–oxide–semiconductor field-effect transistor)
The Animation above features a MOSFET wiring. MOSFET Transistors can be soldered onto
the external wiring of a gearbox that connects to the Battery. When you release the trigger normally it takes a moment for the inertia of the motor to subside and the motor to come to a stop. Installing a MOSFET stops the motor after you release the trigger and will make sure that after you fire a complete shot in semi, the spring becomes uncompressed.
With a basic wiring system (no MOSFET or capacitor), only pulling the trigger briefly will lead to a half-pulled spring and no shot. You have to make sure and do a full trigger pull to do single shot. With a MOSFET or the right size capacitor, just enough energy gets stored into the device to complete 1 shot- no more, no less.
Contribution by : Ace
The most common upgrade done to many AEGs is the “Spring Upgrade” which is relatively cost effective. Seeing as how the spring only cost a mere $10. In most cases, under the assumption that all other parts are stock; a Spring should not be upgraded past M120.
THINGS TO MAKE SURE WHEN UPGRADING
- Have money set aside for broken parts.
- Have a bigger battery at hand atleast 9.6v or 10.8v.
- Springs will atleast loose around 10% of their Initial power after the first ~1000 Rounds (Guesstimated) (eg. A Spring pushing 450fps will eventually calm down to 410fps.)
** What will start happening on upgraded performance AEG more often is… Once your battery starts running low on a charge it will not pull have enough power to pull the Piston back. Thus, your piston just gets stuck and your spring gets compressed. The only remedy to this is to Open the Box up to relieve the piston and let the spring decompress. It should go something like this...(Unscrew gearbox; slightly open…POP!) Make sure to have a screw holding the spring guide down when you open the gearbox.
This is usually the case when the Gun does not to seem to be firing, you hear/feel the motor torque and you know the battery is fully charged and nothing.
You can have the strongest gears pistons and strongest matching spring. But what good is that if you do not have a gearbox that can handle all that tension?
Reinforced gearboxes are the answer to that. Stock Gearbox’s WILL crack under extreme tension.
UNDERSTANDING THE HOP UP SYSTEM
How is the spin created?
- Inside is a piece of Rubber (the Bucking) which one side (Usually the top) is pressed down
to create a drag on the top of the BB. Thus Creating Spin. When the Hop Up is turned down or
off; very little or no drag is applied to the BB.
The More you set your Hop Up “Up”, the More top drag will be applied to the BB and it will fly up.
Setting the Hop up means finding that spot where its just enough drag to spin the BB with the most range and true straight flight.
UNDERSTANDING THE BARREL LENGTH IN RELATION TO ACCURACY.
*Check your hop up first before considering a Barrel upgrade. Perhaps you havn't set it or the unit needs to be rebuilt.
*Some say past 509mm is negligible as far as accuracy goes.
*Do not Expect to turn a 100mm Barrel AEG into a Sniper weapon and to fire more than 320fps.
*Longer Barrels do give you more FPS. Past ~534mm you will need a Longer Cylinder Head to compensate for the longer barrel. (ie SR-25)
*Precision Barrels do offer more FPS. Keep these Clean the smallest obstruction could jam your AEG. The reason why they are precision is because they are smaller and there is less space for the BB to move around in the barrel.
*Try any barrel combination with your AEG. Finding the best length and bore to match your gearbox is and needs can be difficult.
For more information about Accuracy and Precision Barrels, Read SABOT’s test.
I'm sure most of you have asked yourself Do tight-bore barrels, add FPS, increase range, produce tighter groupings than a stock barrel?
Well, recently I conducted a test to determine just that, and the answer is yes.
I hope these Tips offered some enlightenment to anyone who is considering doing their first upgrade.
format editing by DarkSamus
foos i wanna smell your dick i love u
So now I know.
My thread about mother fucking noob faggots belongs in a ~joint ops~ thread.
Once I finish up my damn research paper for English and start my winter break I can attempt to write up a non biased starters guide. Going to be about 2 weeks or so until then.
remember in the UK there are regulations on the length of the weapon as well
any ideas on how to get these items imported to australia (where it is banned)
Wait what, 70mm? The barrel alone on my AKM is 400mm..
I know it's awfull If you are worried consider liscensing yourselff as a skirmisher.
Requirments are going airsoft skirmishing at least 2, 3 times two months
Are you sure it's not 700mm for the length of the gun? I can't think of any gun that's below 70mm. Hell, now that I think about it, even just the barrel on my 226 is about 110mm or so.
Luckily I don't even live in the UK, so I don't have to deal with this shit, haha.
Damn! I think it probably refers to pistols. I'll look into it further as I am thinking of getting into airsoft
For all UK skirmishers I don't think the length rules apply. As long as everything is seperate and hidden in a case of some kind or similiar container, hidden from the public until you get to a registered game site it's ok.
There is alaw about force It is a bout 1.3 joules(?) Which most airsoft weapons (unmodified) Do not come near.
Two tone colours will negate the realistic immitation firearm laws. (don't forget unrealistic immitation firearm laws
I think it's saying that it has to be either two-toned, or of that length. And since there isn't any sort of gun that measures shorter than 70mm, you pretty much have to two-tone.
I don't mind two tone tbh. Won't give away in most cases
I don't plan on using realistic immitation firearms and I don't see the need to carry airsoft in public
Pah the laws here are ok when you look into it thouroughtly
you guys have it better then Canada at least. us Canadian airsofters need to get our shit together and do something about our terrible laws.
or move to the usa