I changed the oil in the civic today, it looks like it needed it badly.
I have some advice though, don't change your oil in gusting wind.
Especially gusting Oklahoma wind, the worst kind. It blew oil across my decently clean engine bay my first attempt to pour it in.
But i didn't spill a drop pouring the old oil into this milk jug.
Not today but yesterday.
New coolant, new thermostat, new oil, new oilfilter and connected the spark plug leads the correct way..
Now I only need a timing adjustment and it should run just fine :>
It wasn't a blown head gasket anyway, just the last people who changed the plugs and leads connected in the wrong order
It's the Golf btw
Trying to get my car running again, got the transmission in but can't remember if I did it right.
Bradley(or anyone else), do you know if you have to do anything with the clutch fork? I went through an article to get the torque specs for all the bolts and realized that there is a spring on the fork which is meant to hold the fork down the input shaft. Mine was just kind of loose in there and the fork fell off while we were moving it around. I just put the throwout bearing on it, put it on the input shaft and got it on the car..
It's an Integra so I would figure the b series hydraulic transmission would be similar to the d series ones on your Civics or other cars you've worked on.
B and D trannies are identical except for bellhousing pattern and other measurements. Everything is mechanically the same. But B series are known for the fork ordeal, I don't know what all is up with it, just know that it is probably annoying.
I still rock dirty D's because they are dirt cheap and a great platform to work with.
showcasing some parts
from this summer:
mishimoto alu rad
Cx racing IC
Raptor racing ceramic 6puck sprung clutch with oem pressure plate
Cx racing IC piping
on top of that (no picture): ct-26 57mm from driftmotion with a ported wastegate, 550cc rc injectors, lexus MAF, small other goodies.
Made my car a blast to drive @ 18psi (fuel cut limiting me)
Now on the recent stuff (not installed yet)
turbo oil flange gasket kit, pcv hose that I needed, small connectors and vacuum line. Booring stuff here
new accordeon hose (because I needed one that wasn't cracked):
Aem uego to have a idea what i'm doing with the safc II
oil line for the turbo, made out of AN fitting/hose
before putting it in storage for the winter (local car enthusiast club meet)
can't wait to install all these and the aluminium driveshaft on the car. I will try to lean the ecu to 11.5 afr when in WOT@fullboost (it is currently under 9:1, PIG RICH).
If I'm lucky I will be over 370rwhp when I'll get on the dyno this summer
Can we be friends?
installed some subframe lockdown bolts to complement poly bushings, car no longer feels like it's floating on a sea of rubber, lol econobox w/ tarbo
This video shows the guy putting it in, I never took the clip out but I'm pretty sure I didn't clip it onto the pivot ball. I think I'll pull the slave cylinder and try my best to pop it on with a big screwdriver because I really don't want to pull the transmission again..
time for you to start gathering some info
also check Lextreme
Basically, if the clutch feels good then it is good, you've nothing to worry about.
Now, if it went dead after pushing it the first time, that's when you know the fork slipped. But there's nowehre to go unless you didn't get it over the ball. Once it's over the ball it isn't going anywhere.
Small engine lovers' attention ho!
Finally got the engine home and apart.
It's definitely an Onan.
<- That ball on the floor is the ball of ice stuck in the combustion chamber.
Gonna wash it out and get the pistons/crank/cam/valves out tomorrow.
The parts for conducting electricity will definitely be taken apart and all the copper sold for scrap.
The whole thing together is more than 300 pounds.
that thing looks rough
It's filled with ice and sand, no way it will ever run, the exhausts are rusted through and the carb is broken to smithereens, but I'm thinking of making a table out of it, or something.
If nothing works out, it'll be worth quite a bit for scrap.
There is no MFW worthy enough of the sadness filling me when I look at this poor engine
first I park my car
then I fuck your bitch
Are you going to try and swap a manual transmission into that at some point?
As soon as I have money I'm dropping something MEAN in there, with manual transmission.
Just got done doing a small thing on my car, had those two led strips laying around, so I decided to install them tonight.
Gives this ->
I got everything torqued down, got the shift linkage back in and got the half shaft in as well as the starter and the sensors.
I almost got it almost all together but I aligned the top hats wrong on my struts and I had to pay a shop to do them because nowhere seems to rent a fucking spring compressor which will work on honda coils.
I am never doing struts and springs myself ever again, fuck my life.
yeah, especially the colors casted onto the ground.
Now it has a gentleman's mustache made of light.
My tent comes next week.
Then the hood comes off, and the fenders, and the inner fenders, and the radiator support.
and then LMC/Junkyard trips all day errday
Does anyone have ideas on how to get the top hat to spin on already compressed struts without killing myself? The fork doesn't line up with the LCA enough to get a bolt through..
I think 1/4 life got something agaisnt toyotas.
On a other note, there have been a lot of issue with the mishimoto and the fanclutch on my car. Where the clearance would be too low and it ended up eating the rad.
I don't understand, there is at least 3/4" between the rad and the fanclutch
Today I went to go wash my car, When I jumped back in the car started beeping at me I was thinking "What is wrong with you now." It was a Can-bus warning.
Apparently one of my headlight's went out.
After I got to work I bought 2 new H1 bulb's and installed them. The Driver side bulb was fried and extreamly heat colored and a "Eiko" Brand. The Passanger side was still working but looked like it was about to go some what heat colored and a "Phillip's" brand.
I put 2 new Salvina's in there and I'm happy.
Fuckkkkk, I got everything back together, started it up and I let it idle down and warm up a bit since it's been sitting for 3 months but as soon as I put it in reverse and let out the clutch the right front wheel kind of juttered backwards and made some popping/clicking noises.
Ugh, if I fucked up that transmission I'm going to be so pissed.. I don't think an axle would make a feeling like that but I was pretty rough with my passenger side axle when putting it in. It was like intermittent power and felt like the wheel was like wobbling all over the place but I'm pretty sure it wasn't.
I can't even think of any terms to google this problem either...
Stock clutch fan is a garantee not to overheat because it will never fail.
those who replaced the clutchfan and installed electric fans have the risk of having one or two fail because of the wiring or just not having suficient airflow.
Plus, the clutchfan is free, it's already on the car. (and no, you don't free up ponies)
the alternator extra charge can be seen when idling, it draw enough amperage to anihilate the physical gain anyway.
If my car would have come with electric fan I wouldn't remove them in order to install a clutchfan, but in my case it would be stupid to replace it if it ain't broke
Either way the energy for the fan has to come from somewhere regardless of drive method.
You may "Gain" 1-2 HP from removing the fan, but it's lost again through the alternator-battery-motor-fan system surely?