1. Post #2481
    ThermalArc's Avatar
    July 2011
    1,302 Posts
    sort of. Basically, it is not a worthy upgrade if your fanclutch work perfectly fine.
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  2. Post #2482
    Gold Member
    Aetna's Avatar
    July 2007
    1,980 Posts
    sort of. Basically, it is not a worthy upgrade if your fanclutch work perfectly fine.
    It seriously depends on the car. e36's like mine show anywhere from 6-10 hp, dyno proven power increases. There's also other advantages, including less stress on the water pump studs and bearing as well as the removed risk of eating up the inside of your engine bay in the case of a clutch pulley failure.

    Edited:

    Either way the energy for the fan has to come from somewhere regardless of drive method.

    You may "Gain" 1-2 HP from removing the fan, but it's lost again through the alternator-battery-motor-fan system surely?
    That depends on the car, if your alternator is already straining to support the electrical system, then yes, you'll notice a power decrease from the added draw of the electric fan. If you have a nice, beefy alternator with plenty of leftover amperage at idle then you'll have no problem supporting the e-fan.
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  3. Post #2483
    Gold Member
    bradley's Avatar
    January 2011
    5,493 Posts
    Fuckkkkk, I got everything back together, started it up and I let it idle down and warm up a bit since it's been sitting for 3 months but as soon as I put it in reverse and let out the clutch the right front wheel kind of juttered backwards and made some popping/clicking noises.

    Ugh, if I fucked up that transmission I'm going to be so pissed.. I don't think an axle would make a feeling like that but I was pretty rough with my passenger side axle when putting it in. It was like intermittent power and felt like the wheel was like wobbling all over the place but I'm pretty sure it wasn't.

    I can't even think of any terms to google this problem either...

    Any ideas?
    Did it move alright?

    How much fluid did you put back in the tranny?




    ....You did drain and refill it while you had it out, right? If you didn't... You should drain it now. It takes two and a half quarts of regular old 5w30 motor oil.
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  4. Post #2484
    Gold Member
    slayer3032's Avatar
    November 2007
    3,466 Posts
    It did move backwards in reverse and forwards in first.

    I put 2.5qt's in and let the excess drain out til it dripped out as suggested over at team-integra.

    The wheels moved in different directions when jacked up and placed in first and didn't move the other wheel when placed in neutral.

    The clutch has feeling and seemed to engage although after moving a couple feet I quickly jammed it back in, put it in neutral and held it in place with the brakes as it does roll.

    Yeah, I actually poured a bunch of cheap 5w30 through it to flush out the dirt and shit from it being opened before filling it with Honda MTF.

    I'm slightly concerned about the rear motor mount as I only tightened two bolts on it, I didn't take the bolts out from it since my friend who's had to replace his mount before and has dropped his transmission plenty of times. I was reving it up to like 3500 before I went to go and I didn't feel like the mount was unbolted or anything.

    My grandma brought up a point when she asked if I thought it was out of alignment or something but I don't think alignment would cause something like that. I should probably go check to see if I drug the tire through the garage though. It felt more like an uneven wobble of power sort of though.

    Edited:

    Heh, my step dad had me take it for a drive and the chatter worked out after a couple launches.. Sucsess! Now to align my front bumper and clean the garage lol.
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  5. Post #2485
    Gold Member
    bradley's Avatar
    January 2011
    5,493 Posts
    Yeah, was about to say, sounds kind of normal.. Every Honda I've owned makes a bit of chatter from front end bits, it's just worn ass honda stuff.

    Glad it worked out though. :)

    Edited:

    Tried changing my spark plugs again



    Am I doin it right?

    Nah just kidding, converting back to N/A for Jap. Saving turbo bits for the egg he's trading me once I get an intake and shit for it.

    DC Sport header I gloss black'd with 500 degree paint

    (Won't last long, I'll bet. lol)

    blurry engine bay shot after


    w/o intercooler :C


    Yep, that's it for now. Gotta rewire the blinkers for the bumper and it's good to go for Jap.
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  6. Post #2486
    GOLF WANG
    Alec W's Avatar
    August 2006
    7,600 Posts
    needs more lip
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  7. Post #2487
    Gold Member
    slayer3032's Avatar
    November 2007
    3,466 Posts
    I went and drove it around for about 20 miles, it has like really bad wheel hop taking off and a little into second. When I downshift it feels like I just dumped the clutch into the gear.. Hopefully it will clear up after a couple hundred miles. Maybe I just can't drive it or something.

    My mounts seemed pretty stiff although I just kinda let the motor hang around in there for a couple months. Do you think this could be my mounts instead of the clutch?

    I was thinking about bringing it in to the alignment shop but I don't know if they want a car that is going to jerk it's way up onto the lift and try to spin tires even if you attempt to ride the clutch lol.
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  8. Post #2488
    Gold Member
    bradley's Avatar
    January 2011
    5,493 Posts
    Welcome to having a new clutch. It's going to be pretty grabby until it's worn in.
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  9. Post #2489
    Gold Member
    teslacoil's Avatar
    May 2006
    2,575 Posts
    Started gathering copper from the little Onan and the conductors.

    Still trying to get the pistons, valves, and cam out, but this thing is rusted and packed with mud through and through.
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  10. Post #2490
    S.T.A.R.S Member and Honorary B.O.W
    Scientwist's Avatar
    May 2008
    1,667 Posts
    Started gathering copper from the little Onan and the conductors.

    Still trying to get the pistons, valves, and cam out, but this thing is rusted and packed with mud through and through.
    What have you been using to break up the rust? PB Blaster is really good for that, and Marvel Mystery oil. The motto for that stuff should be "NOM NOM SLUDGE AND RUST".
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  11. Post #2491
    Gold Member
    slayer3032's Avatar
    November 2007
    3,466 Posts


    This is what it looked like 8 months ago when a friend of mine slid it into friend's integra and an ex-friend slid into my rear bumper and pushed the car further in but the rear still isn't fixed.





    A new fender and bumper support bracket lined it all up so well that you can't really tell until you notice the 1/4" difference in the body line of the fender compared to the door.

    $250 for the all the pieces someone took off for a JDM front after he tapped a guard rail with his drivers side in a color which is pretty fucking close to mine? Was an absolute steal, just wish I could have seen his car :( Shit I even got a radiator and ac condenser along with the whole front clip, core support and all.

    Along with a mild drop on H&R sports, Skunk2 sport shocks, a Exedy stage 2 clutch with a 11.2lb flywheel, Hawk ceramic pads and Russel stainless steel brake lines. I think I'm going to be very happy with my car again, it's going to be like having a whole new car but with all of the attachment and memories of my first car too.
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  12. Post #2492
    Gold Member
    bradley's Avatar
    January 2011
    5,493 Posts
    Not a bad 'teg. I used to have a red one sitting on Del Sol fat fives but I traded it for my first CRX and haven't had an Integra since.
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  13. Post #2493
    Gold Member
    teslacoil's Avatar
    May 2006
    2,575 Posts
    What have you been using to break up the rust? PB Blaster is really good for that, and Marvel Mystery oil. The motto for that stuff should be "NOM NOM SLUDGE AND RUST".
    The rust isn't really holding anything together, apart from the cylinders, which I've been using Aero Kroil and leverage to loosen things up.
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  14. Post #2494
    Gold Member
    slayer3032's Avatar
    November 2007
    3,466 Posts
    Not a bad 'teg. I used to have a red one sitting on Del Sol fat fives but I traded it for my first CRX and haven't had an Integra since.
    I also have a terribly abused 90' Integra with a b16a swap that needs a timing belt and valve tappet nuts, I'll have to get that thing running before I do anything to my car to prevent from getting overwhelmed again lol. Now that's going to be a fun project.. Hopefully my friend who usually gives me a hand when working on cars will finally be able to help again in a couple weeks since he hasn't been able to in a couple months. I love integras but my next favorite honda by far is a CRX.
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  15. Post #2495
    S.T.A.R.S Member and Honorary B.O.W
    Scientwist's Avatar
    May 2008
    1,667 Posts
    The rust isn't really holding anything together, apart from the cylinders, which I've been using Aero Kroil and leverage to loosen things up.
    What ever works, you think with enough tlc that thing would run again?
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  16. Post #2496
    Gold Member
    bradley's Avatar
    January 2011
    5,493 Posts
    I also have a terribly abused 90' Integra with a b16a swap that needs a timing belt and valve tappet nuts, I'll have to get that thing running before I do anything to my car to prevent from getting overwhelmed again lol. Now that's going to be a fun project.. Hopefully my friend who usually gives me a hand when working on cars will finally be able to help again in a couple weeks since he hasn't been able to in a couple months. I love integras but my next favorite honda by far is a CRX.
    I'm still a total EF hatch guy, I'm getting rid of the CRX to Japfeiffer/The Pfeiffenator for his EG hatch though. It's got a motor I built for boost that he never boosted, so I've got my kit ready for it.
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  17. Post #2497
    GOLF WANG
    Alec W's Avatar
    August 2006
    7,600 Posts
    If I can I might grab a CRX to hold me off until I can get work done to the rolla.
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  18. Post #2498
    Gold Member
    teslacoil's Avatar
    May 2006
    2,575 Posts
    What ever works, you think with enough tlc that thing would run again?
    In its current form, no, I would need to buy some replacement parts. Luckily, even though Onan stopped producing parts years ago, some people still stock parts. Apparently, these engines were used mostly for RV and fire-truck generators.

    I'll probably end up selling it to pay for parts for the GTO or cleaning it and making a neat table out of it.


    Also, is it okay to use water to clean mud and sand out of an aluminum cylinder head? I can't make much progress getting the crank out without cleaning all the crap out of the cylinders.
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  19. Post #2499
    S.T.A.R.S Member and Honorary B.O.W
    Scientwist's Avatar
    May 2008
    1,667 Posts
    In its current form, no, I would need to buy some replacement parts. Luckily, even though Onan stopped producing parts years ago, some people still stock parts. Apparently, these engines were used mostly for RV and fire-truck generators.

    I'll probably end up selling it to pay for parts for the GTO or cleaning it and making a neat table out of it.


    Also, is it okay to use water to clean mud and sand out of an aluminum cylinder head? I can't make much progress getting the crank out without cleaning all the crap out of the cylinders.
    Unless you leave the water in it for like, more then 3 weeks then no. otherwise as long as you dry it out within at least 2 days you should be good.

    I had Briggs 5 HP cool-bore (aluminum cylinder) that had water in it up to the spark plug that sat for almost a year. after some vigorous cleaning, that sucker was running in no time. Gotta love a good Briggs and Stratton, can take alot of abuse and keep on kartin'.
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  20. Post #2500
    GOLF WANG
    Alec W's Avatar
    August 2006
    7,600 Posts
    adjusting the kickdown cable tomorrow
    so I can shift upwards
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  21. Post #2501
    Gold Member
    bradley's Avatar
    January 2011
    5,493 Posts
    Unless you leave the water in it for like, more then 3 weeks then no. otherwise as long as you dry it out within at least 2 days you should be good.

    I had Briggs 5 HP cool-bore (aluminum cylinder) that had water in it up to the spark plug that sat for almost a year. after some vigorous cleaning, that sucker was running in no time. Gotta love a good Briggs and Stratton, can take alot of abuse and keep on kartin'.
    I had an old lawn tractor with a Briggs & Stratton 18hp flat twin. I only ever had to put a new starter on that thing, and I reused the head gaskets several times haha. I ran that thing off of all sorts of fuels and things, and the little 1" exhausts I made up for it were great.

    Things I've ran a Briggs engine off of:
    Gasoline (Obviously)
    Propane
    Diesel fuel
    Kerosene
    Vegetable Oil & Isopropyl Alcohol
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  22. Post #2502
    Gold Member
    Dennab
    February 2008
    3,456 Posts
    Woke up at 7:00 AM and finished concealing my subwoofer wires. Also tuned them and they sound 300% better.
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  23. Post #2503
    Gold Member
    bradley's Avatar
    January 2011
    5,493 Posts
    Sold the purple slug today

    Guy came up handed me $500 cash and loaded it up on a dolly, took that shit home.

    Time to buy MMF2 so I can finally crank out a game and make moneys maybe.
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  24. Post #2504
    S.T.A.R.S Member and Honorary B.O.W
    Scientwist's Avatar
    May 2008
    1,667 Posts
    I had an old lawn tractor with a Briggs & Stratton 18hp flat twin. I only ever had to put a new starter on that thing, and I reused the head gaskets several times haha. I ran that thing off of all sorts of fuels and things, and the little 1" exhausts I made up for it were great.

    Things I've ran a Briggs engine off of:
    Gasoline (Obviously)
    Propane
    Diesel fuel
    Kerosene
    Vegetable Oil & Isopropyl Alcohol
    HA ha, I did the same thing with the isopropyl, only it was straight. It would have been great cuz it runs so cold but keeping it choked so tight just makes it difficult to deal with. Unless you set up to run 10:1 alcohol/air mix or way higher. Never tried diesel, propane scares me a bit much and I could never get my hands on kerosene. If i wanted veggie oil I'd have to filter out the oil from my dads iron skillet, but that was then. (like 8 years ago)

    I ran 25% nitro in a weed eater once.
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  25. Post #2505
    Gold Member
    Strider_07's Avatar
    July 2006
    3,894 Posts
    I wish I had a garage, I found an AE86 with an untouched 4AGZE and a manual tranny in it at pick-n-pull (however it looked like the back had been set on fire at one point). I almost came. I'd have to do some major metalwork to fit it into my Camry though.

    Think I might order this when my tax refund comes in: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACO-2141/

    Although it'll probably be less than helpful unless I take it in to get the shocks done.
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  26. Post #2506
    GOLF WANG
    Alec W's Avatar
    August 2006
    7,600 Posts
    4agze + camry = fuck
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  27. Post #2507
    Gold Member
    Strider_07's Avatar
    July 2006
    3,894 Posts
    4agze + camry = fuck
    POWWWWEEEEEEEERRRRRR

    Have to admit, it's a beautiful engine though

    Someone on ToyotaNation swears all the S engines use the same basic motor mount, I wonder how hard it would be to drop in the engine from a Gen2 camry in the future, I like my 2SELC but fuck if it isn't impossible to find parts for it
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  28. Post #2508
    Gold Member
    bradley's Avatar
    January 2011
    5,493 Posts
    Today I'm not going to work on anything because I haven't got my EG yet.

    But I am going to start development on my dev team's first game. We'll see how that goes.



    Also I might dick around with some steel and try to weld a little on a manifold design for a topmount T3 for my EG so I can keep A/C. But I don't know if I can do it. Would be cool... I love topmount manifolds.
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  29. Post #2509
    FordLord's Avatar
    October 2008
    2,683 Posts
    I've been slowly working on this;

    Lots of hole filling (there was trim along the doors. We took the trim off last time we painted it, but all we had to fill it with was silicone)
    The color I will (hopefully) be painting the car in the end is what I've painted my scoops and vents (the paint I have for the body is some sort of marine paint. my dad thought of the idea)

    I'll have to redo my grill. I decided I want to paint it differently than I did.
    I did something like 5 coats of primer, and 5 coats of paint
    List of other things to fix/replace:
    Broken corner light bracket (kid in parking lot clipped it and broke it. my dad glued it, but it didn't hold)
    rear tires (3-4mm left on tread)
    rear bumper (it's been barely hanging on since I was rear-ended over a year ago)
    wiring around where the front foglights were (it's been hanging for a little while)
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  30. Post #2510
    Gold Member
    1/4 Life's Avatar
    July 2005
    2,253 Posts






    B&M Ratchet Shifter in the T-Bird! :D
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  31. Post #2511
    GOLF WANG
    Alec W's Avatar
    August 2006
    7,600 Posts
    I can't.
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  32. Post #2512
    Ask Me About My VW Beetle Fetish
    Ldesu's Avatar
    March 2008
    9,969 Posts
    At first glance it looked like a manual that had melted
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  33. Post #2513
    Gold Member
    slayer3032's Avatar
    November 2007
    3,466 Posts
    Bled my clutch and dumped the last of my brake fluid through it, transmission shifts like butter and the clutch isn't an on/off switch in the middle of the petal anymore. It still feels the same but I think the air or the nasty ass fluid in it wasn't letting the clutch go in all the way too as the transmission had a similar engagement into each gear as before. Short of getting used of the new clutch it works perfectly from what I can tell.

    Now I need to change the transmission fluid again, get new tie rods and balljoints put in along with my new rear struts while getting an alignment done. Then somewhere along the lines of I should probably flush my power steering fluid as the pump makes a really nasty noise when it's cold.
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  34. Post #2514
    Can i have a tital Dav0r?
    Dylan_94's Avatar
    August 2005
    1,896 Posts
    I want to change the transmission fluid on my civic, but i don't have the funds for fluid, and i'll need to get some rubber tubing to funnel the fluid to the fill hole(so it seems, based on youtube).
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  35. Post #2515
    Gold Member
    slayer3032's Avatar
    November 2007
    3,466 Posts
    Make sure it's more than a foot or so, I bought one that seemed "just" long enough and I have to jam it between AC lines and pop the funnel off. 3 bottles of Honda MTF is like $17 from my local dealer, it's well worth it and if it hasn't been done it's totally worth it.
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  36. Post #2516
    Can i have a tital Dav0r?
    Dylan_94's Avatar
    August 2005
    1,896 Posts
    I wonder how much i would benefit from it. The transmission already shifts really well, and never grinds or anything, and i want to keep it that way. I don't know the last time it was done; i have only had it for less than a month. I'll take care of it sometime soon.
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  37. Post #2517
    Gold Member
    slayer3032's Avatar
    November 2007
    3,466 Posts
    Honda recommends every 30k but very few people do it at all. It definitely wouldn't hurt, just make sure to put Honda's MTF into it and not something like Redline synthetic. My personal experiences with it weren't that great and it is said to cause higher syncro wear because of having more friction modifiers in it. Drained it all out and the transmission which had been feeling significantly worse since changing to it 20k miles before, now feels better than when I bought it.

    You can also use 5w-30 but I've heard that the detergents put in motor oils aren't great for your transmission. Although I know a few people who put 5w-30 in and their transmissions have lasted just as long. The Honda stuff isn't all that expensive so I've just always opt'd for that and it's what Honda/Acura suggests.
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  38. Post #2518
    Gold Member
    bradley's Avatar
    January 2011
    5,493 Posts
    I don't know why you waste money on Honda MTF. It's 30 weight motor oil in a fancy bottle. Haha.

    I've always ran 5w30 in my trannies, 10w30 in summer. It only takes two quarts and the brand doesn't matter, it's all the same stuff (I wouldn't run cheaper shit in my engine, but that's just because the engine has more fine areas than the tranny. It's just an open box with gears everywhere).

    $5 of wal-mart oil is enough to change your tranny fluid. Get like, 2 feet of hose. One foot is... Still a bit of a hassle. Depends on the bay layout really.

    Motor oil won't hurt a Honda tranny. The detergents put in motor oil won't hurt those hardened steel gears. Think about it, would you trust Honda's MTF tranny oil in your rod bearings? They take on much more wear than the transmission gears and they certainly aren't nearly as hardened. If anything Honda MTF is worse than motor oil for lubrication.

    Personally I've seen far more people use 5w30, and I've never seen the choice in fluid make much difference.

    I have seen some dumb shits use syncromesh gear oil though, or regular gear oil, which is TOO HEAVY.
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  39. Post #2519
    Gold Member
    teslacoil's Avatar
    May 2006
    2,575 Posts
    I don't know why you waste money on Honda MTF. It's 30 weight motor oil in a fancy bottle. Haha.

    I've always ran 5w30 in my trannies, 10w30 in summer. It only takes two quarts and the brand doesn't matter, it's all the same stuff (I wouldn't run cheaper shit in my engine, but that's just because the engine has more fine areas than the tranny. It's just an open box with gears everywhere).

    $5 of wal-mart oil is enough to change your tranny fluid. Get like, 2 feet of hose. One foot is... Still a bit of a hassle. Depends on the bay layout really.

    Motor oil won't hurt a Honda tranny. The detergents put in motor oil won't hurt those hardened steel gears. Think about it, would you trust Honda's MTF tranny oil in your rod bearings? They take on much more wear than the transmission gears and they certainly aren't nearly as hardened. If anything Honda MTF is worse than motor oil for lubrication.

    Personally I've seen far more people use 5w30, and I've never seen the choice in fluid make much difference.

    I have seen some dumb shits use syncromesh gear oil though, or regular gear oil, which is TOO HEAVY.
    Every time you post this stuff I want a 90's Civic/CR-X a little more, so I can put this advice to work.
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  40. Post #2520
    ThermalArc's Avatar
    July 2011
    1,302 Posts
    my r154 require some heavy ass oil (90W). Don't know how you guys manage to make them trannys survive with light oil like 30w
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