My bike seat crushes my ischium.
My bike seat crushes my ischium.
i keep on hitting the wall about 30km in
shit sucks yo
So, when I was pretty determined to lose some weight last summer, I got myself one of those crappy Schwinn Sidewinder $100 bikes from Wal-Mart. Worst decision of my life.
It's so heavy that it's like riding a stack of cement blocks, and the chain slips out of place constantly. I'm terrified of riding the thing, because last time I went for about an 8km ride, I was going up a fairly steep hill 6km out or so, chain slipped, I flew forward, and almost racked myself going a good sped.
My dad has this early 90s Nishiki that he got when his brother died, and I'd love to use that. It's bigger, and half the weight.
Question is, should I send it in to the only bike shop in town (which charges exorbitant prices for tune ups), or fix it up myself? I don't want anything to screw up, and I'd love to start riding again. Desert riding is pretty fun if you have a decent mountain bike.
I'm not entirely sure if anything is broken, I just want it tuned up. It's a 20 year old bike that hasn't been ridden seriously in probably 8 years.
I'll get a picture of it when I get off work, both to see if there is anything noticeably wrong with it, and to determine what sort of bike it is. I know it's Nashiki, and it's a mountain bike. That's about it. Only thing I can find is the Nishiki Backroads, but it looks a bit different. Cost $750 20 years ago, so it's got to be decent.
Do you know what a bike should look like when it's proper and ready to ride on?
Honestly, no. I've never ridden more than casually, and when I did go for the longer (8km+) rides, I was terrified because my bike would mess up in some way nearly every time.
Working at a retail store, I know now to never buy a bike from anywhere outside of a specialty shop. We treat our bikes like crap when stocking them, because you have to throw them around to get them anywhere.
It's not mine haha. It's a 1999 Samson ~njs keirin racer~. 59cm I believe.
You'd probably pay around $1500 before shipping for a frame like that. If you like those Japanese frames, there's guy called NJS export, he could probably hook you up.
Ah, fresh none the less ha..
Yeah I like the NJS stuff, basically lookin for anything big and lugged. I'm not too hung up on names, Just trying to get that price down as much as possible. Unfortunately lugged+large=$$$
Got any ideas on cheaper lugged frames?
So, a few months ago I bought a bike. Nothing special, it's a second hand Ridgeback Velocity (don't know what year, but they're basically all the same), here she is.
I got it for a reasonable price, £170, it's in decent nick. I figured I might as well have bought something quality for cheap, as opposed to something new for the same sort of price from Halfords.
Anyway, there was one problem - I had never ridden a bike before.
Since then, I've taught myself how to ride and I'll go do 5 miles a night minimum. It's not much sure, but I stick to the backstreets for now, as I'm not confident in traffic. My main goal right now is to get better at slow speed riding and riding one handed (for signalling turns), I've found that a little confidence can go a LONG way on a bike.
Hopefully, within a few more months, I hope to start riding to work (11 miles), maybe only once a week at first, then building it up gradually.
It's nearly 1am and I'm going to ride.
But anyway, I just got my first mountain bike last Saturday. (after riding my BMX for quite awhile)
The bike is a 2010 Marin Bobcat Trail, and I have yet to test it out on a trail yet, but on the street it feels like a pretty nice bike.
What's wrong with wearing a helmet? And the safety jacket is so that automobile drivers can see him better in the dark.
Also, What are thoughts and opinions on the Schwinn Protocol 1.0 and 2.0?
Same with the hi-vis jacket. Drivers in and around London aren't the smartest creatures. I'd rather make my presence known than be near invisible in the dark.
Anyway, so today I cycled to and from the second train station on my journey to work. It's only 3 miles each way and I covered both ways in 20 minutes each. There's some nasty hills on the route that are unavoidable but there's nothing like forcing yourself to push hard up them. My legs are aching and my lungs are burning (gotta quit smoking), but I love it.
I think I'm gonna get some ergonomic grips like the specialized BG grips and some more slick tires, any recommendations? I don't want full slicks, something with a little water displacement ability would be nice, British weather isn't the best.
Cannondale Moto Carbon 3
Had her for about a year or so, she's brilliant and rides perfectly
160mm of travel on the front and back.
how do the butterfly bars on that koga miyata compare to drops? i have seen them on a couple of high end touring bikes and they look comfortable
think i might replace my tektro disc with avid bb7 the tektro brakes are a fucking pain to adjust so they dont rub but still apply a decent amount of braking force on the otherhand the 160mm front and back when properly adjusted are fucking scary when braking at full power from 30-40 mph with 700x25 tyres the back wheel slides all over the place, that could just be the cheapo continental sports contact tyres though
gonna order this http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/...4&menuItemId=0 just waiting for the shop to contact me about the availability of the brooks saddle i want, not sure what pedals to get i was thinking either crank brothers egg beaters or crank brothers candy
he makes a good point about buying from speciality shops as well, i wouldnt buy i bike from halfords for example and there stores dedicate about a half the floor space (more space than many speciality bike shops) to bicycles but really there speciality is a childs first bike (because most parents dont know anywhere better to go) and cheap shit for chavs that falls apart in 6 months
http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/ebwP...c003231c003232 what rims are they i think theres a wider range of road tyres for 700c rather than 26"
I bought some Ergon GC2 grips, the bar ends are tiny, but decent enough when I want to change position.
As for rims, 700c. I've been looking at Specialized Armadillos or Continental Gatorskins. Armadillos look better for if it rains (well, they have a tread pattern at least), while the Gatorskins look better for puncture resistance.
I think for now I'll probably get the armadillos, as they're cheaper and I really don't mind fixing punctures.
Also, this is why I wear a helmet - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvJBNiEVSug
Just get some continental ultra sport.
if your going to ride to work i would fit something with a high puncture resistance like the Schwalbe Marathon series, as for helmets its not worth wearing one that isnt b-90/b-95 certified, most companies dont bother with snell certification but even the cheapest specialized helmet meets b-90 standards
why have I never seen this thread?
It's a Motobecane Track, a bit too small for me (54, I need a 58 or a larger 56)
Currently I have risers and Oury grips on, nothing else has changed.
Going to buy some B43's after tonight. Our group does 30 mile rides every monday.
Rode a total of 107 kilometers (57 miles) today to and from the beach in California on a riverbed/canal
SORE ASS BRO
What the hell is wrong with people?
This is my baby, my GT.
Sportin an FSA wheelset with Vittoria tires and a Fizik saddle.
Carbon frame and fork
FSA carbon crank arm, FSA double chainrings, Ultegra front, generic Shimano spd pedals until my spd-sl cleats come in
SRAM cassette due to wear on the Ultegra one, Dura-Ace rear
My new Elite cages havn't gotten here due to shipping :\
Gointo get this babevvin few weeks.Any ideas how good it is?
just got a new bike, i made the mistake of selecting a frame size based on my height rather than a size lower so i could have the seat post high like on most single speed, not a major problem as its still above the bar height just a slight annoyance
Anyone here been to tour de france?