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Post #1641
What would you recommend if price wasn't an issue?
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Have any of you used the Nikon 12-24mm f/4 or Nikon 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5 ? I'm not too interested in what I've seen from third parties, too much sample variance reported and the Nikon lenses are the only ones I can extensively try before buying without major hassle. The Tokina, as highly regarded as it is, doesn't have a good range of zoom.
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Oh man, I'd love a wide-angle so much.
Never had anything wider than 18 and I think the candid stuff I could get with something wider would be a lot of fun.
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I get hard at the thought of Toothless ramming me until I bleed
October 2007
8,549 PostsI'd recommend the Sigma 10-20mm, either the f/3.5 version or the f/4-5.6 version.
The build quality is excellent and the optics are excellent, especially for the price you're paying.
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I've always found myself wanting to have more in the frame and that's at 17mm on a D7000.
The constant aperture is nice, and its probably better built than the 10-24 but maybe not the 12-24. All of these lenses suffer from poor sharpness wide open at the widest which is to be expected, but my understanding is the Sigma is the worse of them all. Can't complain at the saving. I can get the 10-24 or 12-24 for £669, but I'm trading in a Speedlight against it which brings it down £150 and selling my Tamron 17-50 2.8 which will be another £150 or so.
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I get hard at the thought of Toothless ramming me until I bleed
October 2007
8,549 PostsThe Sigma 10-20mm is sharp wide open.
I have some extremely nice A3 prints from it, some shot fully open.
Sure there's sharper wide open, but it's already good enough as it is.
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Corner sharpness acceptable for what it is? I'm quite anxious of what sort of sample I could get, even though my 35 1.8 was very good I could have gotten a poor performing one. I guess I could buy a Sigma 10-20 and send it back to Amazon if the results weren't sufficient, but I think trying the Nikons for free at Grays is worth doing. Thanks for the suggestion.
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I get hard at the thought of Toothless ramming me until I bleed
October 2007
8,549 PostsYeah, you can always send it back if you get a dud, but that's very unlikely.
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I've been looking at upgrading to a Pentax K-r from my old Pentax *ist DL. Looking on dpreview's interactive comparison, the camera seems to produce better images than the competition.
I enjoy some macro photos, but mostly enjoy landscape, especially urban-scape. I don't do much ultra-low light, but I'd like to be able to. I especially enjoy Black and white, but that's something I apply in Photoshop anyways.
Is this camera recommendable? Will it be a significant upgrade form my *ist? I'm an amateur, but I'd like to eventual earn money through photography. Will this camera keep up?
I've also been looking at some rebels, the Nikon 5100, and even the Fujifilm x100 (due to it's smaller size, so it's not so awkward taking urban-shots.)
UPDATE! I bought a K-r. Went to the photo shop today. I'm happy!
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So i'm looking for a camcorder to support my t2i since it suffers from overheating in dusty places and when im switching between filming and taking pictures. I'm going to use it for Urban Exploring so it needs to have excelent low light capabilities and most of the main functions should be accessible with buttons since im wearing gloves I can't really use a touchscreen.
It would be nice if it has good manual controls when im only walking around but also full manual contols when i breakout my slider/tripod.
I was looking at the Canon HV40 but since it lacks buttons and most of the options have to be accessed true the menu I was more going for a used Sony Z1/Canon XL1/Panasonic DVX100B they are not that big and feature full manual controls and work great in low light they also record on DVTape which is great since it's one of the strongest storage devices.
So do you guys have any suggestions or what do you think about this?
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your 550D has the best low light capibility, much better than the Z1, XLR and DVX100 without a doubt. They all have tiny sensor. You might be best getting a wide-aperture lens for your t2i like a 30mm 1.4 or 50mm 1.8 and boosting the ISO, or buying a shoe-mount LED lamp
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But as i mentioned my T2i can't be turned on for longer than 15 minutes or record longer than a 12 minute session because of overheating so i'm looking for something non DSLR to back it up.
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Christ the night, I haven't a friggin clue what to look for in Tripods. I know Manfrotto and Gizmo are quality, but I can't spend more than £100 for a travel friendly but sturdy tripod + good head. Can Anyone suggest travel friendly ones or advice on shopping for tripods? I bought a Vista Voyager last year for home use, decent tripod but a brand I'll avoid.
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Well I'm going to get a cheap Hama Traveller
http://direct.asda.com/Hama-Tripod-T...efault,pd.html
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Do report back on it. Which camera + lens do you use? The cheapo one I had before was barely enough to hold a D3000 + 18-55VR. I'd rather spend a bit as I'm sure light but strong solutions exist.
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battery grip or external battery will solve overheating issues as the heat of the battery discharging is kept away from the body, you could try using magic lantern with its auto restart feature to record longer than 12 minutes
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Using a Zenit TTL w/ Helios 44-2 so its about a kilo in weight
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well that's not right, i have used a 550D for over 40 minutes without issue.
Edited:
this was with a battery grip
Edited:
i used one
it broke in half
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okay I forgot, can the canon L lenses be mounted on full sensor and cropped bodies?
so would a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro work with my Canon 7D?
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yes, EF works on both, EF-S is specifically for crop-sensored ones
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this man speaks the truth
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I have magic lantern and a Canon battery grip but I was looking for a camera that I could just keep running for the whole time, I found a Used Sony Z1 with 2 battery's each battery has 550 minutes of standby time so that should be plenty.
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I have a question for you guys:
I've always wondered how my video camera could shoot in bright daylight with 1/50 shutter speed with no problems, while a DSLR would need an ND filter to achieve the same thing. Does this mean that camcorders and compact cameras have ND filters built in, somehow?
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Try shooting at a smaller aperture or lower your iso. Are you shooting in full manual?
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small aperture
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Is this a response to me, or?
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yes
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Some cheap P&S and video cameras do have a build in ND filter rather than an aperture mechanism because it's cheaper.
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Yeh, I've noticed by looking at my P&S camera (and several cellphones), switching from bright light to dark and vice versa makes it flip a little filter in front of the sensor. Pretty interesting how that works.
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It's the sensor that overheats mainly, I would be very surprised if the batteries got anywhere near their max operating temperature.
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Would a canon 600d with a EF 50mm F1.8 II be a good start? As in, for a absolute newbie.
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that would be more than adequate
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Excellent. Thank you for the info!
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you're welcome! it definitely has a lot of room to grow, you'll learn more about photography from the camera and it has good auto modes. make sure you read up on how iso, shutter, and aperture affect exposure to get the most out of it.
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Don't buy it body only though, the kit lens while not amazing is great for learning and cheap.
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I don't know what to choose, either the kit with the stock one or that 50 mm one(been reading a few articles). Is the difference big between these lenses? Or should I save up and maybe purchase a better lens later on?
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The 50mm will be faster and produce better quality photographs, but you'll be limited to one focal length. So you'll need to do a lot of moving around to get a shot. That's not a bad thing, of course. Kit lenses are generally 'do everything' lenses, so while they are very versatile (Some stuff is easier with a zoom, but not too much) they lack the optical quality of a fixed (prime) lens like the 50.
A 50 will last you much longer in your photography life than a kit lens. Eventually you'll grow out of a kit lens, but a standard 50 is always useful.
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maybe this will help you afford it more
http://www.digitalrev.com/product/ca...600d/MTExMzc_A
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I guess this is off topic, but is there a detailed description onto how cameras work down to the bone? I don't get the whole lenses things and everything.
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How a camera works eh?
http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/camera2.htm
try this
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