1. Post #1
    No such thing as overkill.
    catbarf's Avatar
    January 2007
    7,999 Posts
    A&K M60 VN

    jesus christ this thing is heavy



    First Impressions
    When I decided I'd like to be a support gunner, I knew I wanted something a little bigger and more imposing than the M249. I decided to go with an M60, but go with the original Vietnam-style rather than the shortened and lightened Mk43. Part of this was aesthetics, part was hope that a longer barrel would increase accuracy. Now that I have my hands on the gun, I'm impressed with what I'm seeing. It's big, and damned heavy (easily 20lbs empty), and more than a little awkward to shoulder fire, but has lots of neat things that seem to make up for it.



    Externals
    So I'll start with the externals of the gun. It's full metal, except for the foregrip, feed tray cover, and buttplate, which are a durable rubberized plastic, just like on the real thing. This means that the gun is very heavy. Seriously, it's really heavy, and a lot of it is concentrated towards the front, not to mention the box mag placement will force you to bend your left arm, so if you're not reasonably strong and at least six feet tall don't even consider this gun, go for the Mk43 or a SAW instead. The gun is held together with a ton of screws, and is very solid, with no noticeable wobble. It also comes with a steel flash hider (the one pictured) to replace the orange plastic M4-style flash hider it comes with. It was very easy to remove the old hider and screw the new one on, and because the authentic one is black not having to paint it was a nice perk. The rear sight flips up and is adjustable for both windage and elevation. The only thing I'd be concerned with is the pot metal bipod yoke, which could break if it takes too much stress, and replacements aren't cheap. Lastly, the faux charging handle is not spring loaded. It locks in place at the front of the gun, but will simply slide around if pulled back partway.

    Carrying/Operating
    This gun has so many moving parts and things relating to its operation that they deserve a separate section. It has sling mounts, but honestly I don't see the point as I cannot for the life of me find a comfortable way to carry this gun with a sling (yes, I have one in the pics, it's an original USGI M60 sling). The best way I've seen to hump this gun around is across the shoulders, it's too heavy to put on just one shoulder. One thing I've noticed is that the gun's very hard to shoulder fire, since the bipod at the front adds a bunch of weight. This bipod is easily removed, though, making the gun behave much more like a rifle.



    Also of note is that the barrel is very easy to remove- just push in a button and pull a lever, and the entire barrel assembly, plus bipod and 'MOSFET' (I'll get to that) assembly comes out. This makes it very easy to get at the hop-up. It could also be handy for transport, since the gun is nearly four feet long when fully assembled. One small issue I've noticed is that the barrel likes to ram itself down the hop-up chamber, to the point where the bucking is partially blocking the feed hole. This is bad, and so care must be taken in reassembling the gun.



    Now, a few more minor details. There's a flip-up metal plate on the buttplate intended as a shoulder rest. This is more or less useless from a standing position, but when prone it transfers the weight of the gun from the pistol grip to the shoulder, making it a lot more comfortable to shoot. Another thing that I must mention is the 'carry handle'- it is NOT a carry handle. Just like on this replica, the original M60 had the barrel, bipod, and gas tube as one whole piece, so removing the barrel removed the bipod. That handle is there so a gunner can still hold the front end up while the loader gets a new barrel in position during a barrel change. It is not meant to take the weight of the entire gun, it is balanced poorly for actually carrying, and it will break and drop the MG if used as such.

    MOSFET
    Alright, the 'MOSFET'. It is referred to as such in most reviews I've seen, and on most sites selling the gun, but it is NOT a MOSFET. A real MOSFET can reduce wear on your gun by acting as a relay to regulate power use, and a computerized MOSFET can dynamically alter your rate of fire. However, despite appearance, this gun does not use a MOSFET at all- the variable rate of fire is provided by a simple potentiometer that variably increases resistance in the circuit. The battery does all the same work, and drains just as fast (if you double the resistance, you halve the ROF, but also double the power used per shot), so the thing is useless. Upon realizing this, I immediately pulled it out of the gas tube and replaced it with the included bypass plug. It's a nice idea, but the rate of fire isn't high enough that such variability is useful, and the implementation is just bad.

    Internals
    The gearbox on this gun is built like a tank. It's very, very big, and very solid, with thick gears in a solid body. The shimming is decent, nothing special. One weird thing to note is that the gun does not seem to fully compress the spring because of the length of its stroke. This means that if you want to change out the spring, you're going to need one stronger than what you actually want- IIRC the number was about 13%, so if you want 400 FPS, get a spring rated for 450 FPS. This is made easier by the spring quick change feature on the back of the gearbox. Flip a lever, and the spring guide and spring pop out the back. However, this isn't as simple as on A&K's M249s, because the gearbox has to be removed from the body first. The gearbox is easy to get to, though, and can be removed simply by pulling it back and then up once the screws are out. In the picture here, you can see the space in the back that facilitates this, as well as the lever for the quick change spring. Also note how one of the dummy rounds has the bullet resting on top of the receiver- this is necessary, otherwise the belt will come right out if pulled.



    Hop-Up
    This is easily the weakest part of the gun. The stock bucking is this weird flat-nosed shape rather than the conical shape of standard bucking, and the hop-up chamber is inexplicably designed to hold the nub vertically rather than horizontally, which leads to poor contact. Stock accuracy was poor despite the long barrel, so I changed out the bucking and nub to a Prometheus soft type. This improved accuracy, but the hop-up was poor, even when set to full, simply because the nub was on its end and that made it too easily compressed. I replaced the nub with a piece of tubing from a ballpoint pen, and suddenly the hop-up became much more effective. This will wear down the bucking over time, however, so the bucking seems to be the part most likely to fail and the part that will need to be replaced most often.

    Ammo Box
    In contrast, this is the best part of the gun. The box itself uses an interesting flywheel and counterweight system to advance BBs up the feed tube (a tightly coiled spring), and winds to provide tension when the motor isn't on. Basically, it works like a hi-cap that winds itself. It holds a maximum of some 3500 rounds in a big reservoir with a spring-loaded lid to prevent spillage. You can see in the next picture that it has a three-pin connector to connect to the gun, and on the side of the box is a three-position switch, marked Continuum, Off, and Auto. Auto constantly winds the box and shouldn't be used as it will quickly fill the tube and probably burn out the motor, so Continuum is the setting to use. It sets it so when the trigger is pulled, it winds. This setting, plus the use of the gun's battery, makes the battery work in tandem with the gun. It only makes noise when you want to make noise, it's only out of power when the gun's out of power, and if a stronger battery makes the gun shoot faster, it makes the box feed faster too. I noticed two problems, though. First was that the switch likes to get bumped by the battery (turning off the box), which is easily rectified by trimming it down. Second was that on continuum, the box winds enough to feed two or three BBs if you pull the trigger just long enough for a single shot. This winds up the box, and causes double feeding when the tension is high enough. I see this as the gun's way of reminding you that it's a support weapon, not a sniper rifle. Otherwise, though, the box feeds with an admirable consistency. I've yet to have any jams, which coupled with the durability of the gearbox means very long sustained bursts are viable.



    Battery
    One thing to note is that the battery is supposed to go in the satchel, wedged in next to the ammo box. This doesn't leave a lot of room. You can see my 9.6V 3600mAh battery, covered in ACU duct tape, at the right side of the box in the above picture. It's a very, very tight fit. The gun could use a 9.6V with a lower capacity and therefore smaller cells, but for a support gun this is clearly a less than optimal solution, and it would require several backups as well as constant checking. You can, however, put the battery underneath the ammo box, or even on top, but that does compromise the look and may make the wiring more difficult or the battery less secure in the satchel.

    Performance
    With a 9.6V battery fully charged, the ROF was measured at an even 15RPS (900RPM). FPS seems to be about 350 with .2s using a soda can for testing, and although I'll be getting a more accurate chronograph reading as soon as possible this performance seems to stack up pretty well to other reviews online. Accuracy was poor with the stock bucking, but with new bucking in place and the hop-up properly calibrated, it is dead accurate out to 75ft, to the point where as far as I could tell any inaccuracy was due to my inability to hold it steady while shoulder firing and not due to the gun. Something odd I noticed was that it shoots flat but high relative to the aim point, so I'm going to be taking some measurements to see if my sights are misaligned or wrongly set up. As mentioned earlier, it was able to fire off long bursts with no feeding trouble, and put a lot of rounds on target.

    Overall
    This gun is definitely capable as a support weapon. This is not due to a phenomenal muzzle velocity (although this can be altered thanks to its spring quick change), nor a high rate of fire, but rather through the capacity for sustained fire and the accuracy. When the M60 can put 15 rounds per second downrange continuously for ten seconds or more without pause, with enough accuracy to get them on target, and without risk of damaging your gearbox, the target has no choice but to get down. It doesn't need to stop to wind a hi-cap or swap out a midcap, nor will it jam during long periods of fire. However, if you want to tinker and improve, your options are somewhat limited. A faster motor or stronger batteries run the risk of compromising the durability of the internals, a stronger spring will lower the rate of fire, and the hop-up seems proprietary and therefore difficult to replace. The other major problem with this model is the size and bulk- it's definitely not a gun for smaller players, and is a serious commitment to role. Nonetheless, once the craptacular hop-up bucking is replaced, the performance is solid, with a good rate of fire and accuracy at longer range. The internals are built to last, I know a guy who has one who went through 80,000 rounds before needing internal overhaul. If you simply want to be a support gunner, then from a practicality standpoint, the Mk43 is a better option, as despite having a shorter barrel, it's much lighter, cheaper, and more ergonomic. But if you want to be screaming 'GET SOME' in your best Adam Baldwin impression or just be the guy lugging around a huge scary gun, this is definitely a solid choice.

    In summary, the A&K M60 VN's two main attractions are its looks and reliability, which are both excellent. Accuracy and range are also good once the hop-up is fixed, and FPS and ROF are both decent. The primary drawbacks are the overall weight and bulk of the weapon. If you're serious about being a support gunner, and can handle the weight, this is a very good gun for the price.

    Questions/Comments?
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  2. Post #2
    Premature Joculation
    cardfan212's Avatar
    April 2009
    7,934 Posts
    Looks nice, I'm a big guy so if I ever end up with $400 and want to be a support gunner, I'll know what to get.
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  3. Post #3
    FPKawaii's Avatar
    June 2010
    6,357 Posts
    I've always wanted an M60.
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  4. Post #4
    Bestest polish IFAPer
    BBOOBBYY!'s Avatar
    February 2007
    5,103 Posts
    Damn that's sexy. I need to get one for myself, even to just look at it.

    Guess it's short-stroked for higher RoF.

  5. Post #5
    No such thing as overkill.
    catbarf's Avatar
    January 2007
    7,999 Posts
    Guess it's short-stroked for higher RoF.
    It seems almost like they short-stroked it for high ROF, but then they went and put in a powerful spring anyways, so it has fairly typical AEG performance with the caveat that you need a real strong spring if you want to increase FPS. I'm thinking it might have something to do with the durability, it could be that this system causes less wear on the internals and contributes to its longevity.

  6. Post #6
    No such thing as overkill.
    catbarf's Avatar
    January 2007
    7,999 Posts
    Just a small update: After experimenting with the hop-up, I was able to zero the sights. It doesn't look like a good cheek weld will be possible with goggles on, but it is definitely possible to aim and get a reasonable degree of precision using the ironsights. I know some people have been able to convert the upper receiver to accept a bolt-on Picatinny rail for optics, but if you wanted to modernize an M60 you might as well go with the Mk43.

    And lastly, a quick picture showing the relative size of the gun. Like I said before, somewhat awkward to fire from the shoulder, simply because most of the weight is on the off hand. You can see that the arm has to go around the ammo box. For me this wasn't an unnatural stance, but I'm 6'2" so experiences may differ. I don't find it any different from shoulder firing a rifle ergonomically, it's just a lot heavier.

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  7. Post #7
    PERKELE
    JoonazL's Avatar
    May 2009
    6,098 Posts
    damn you look badass
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  8. Post #8
    No such thing as overkill.
    catbarf's Avatar
    January 2007
    7,999 Posts
    Update: In typical Murphy's Law fashion, the gun decided to wait until I actually went out for a skirmish to go apeshit. During the first round, after a long sustained burst I let off the trigger only to find that the gun would not stop firing. Pulling the trigger repeatedly and switching to safe didn't stop it, so I had no choice but to pull the battery. Through testing I was able to get it working semi-properly, but it would still run away fairly frequently (about every third or fourth burst), stopping only when the trigger was pulled again once or twice.

    As for the performance itself, it was fairly effective. Using .25s, the FPS was low enough that getting kills at longer range was difficult, so I may switch to .2s with this gun, or see about installing a slightly stronger spring. The rate of fire wasn't the highest of all guns on the field by any means, but several players on the other team indicated after the game that when they heard it chugging away they got down. The weight was manageable over the course of the day, although I found that the bipod was mostly useless as it's too tall to prop onto waist-high walls effectively, so ended up removing it for the last round.

    One last note is that, as indicated in other reviews, the bipod is made of pot metal and is fairly weak. One of the posts that limits the bipod legs' range of motion broke off, allowing one leg to swivel forward when it should be locked in place, so I'm going to see about getting a replacement or repairing it. However, other than that, the externals held up very nicely, with no visible damage or loose parts despite being bumped into trees and walls and knocked around all day.

    The runaway issue hasn't been mentioned in other reviews as far as I can tell, so it is entirely possible that this is an uncommon issue, but it may be that it inherited the A&K M249's terrible trigger contacts, so I'll report more when I figure out what's wrong.

    Overall, despite the trigger issue and the damage to the bipod, it served as well as expected. Current total shots fired is around 5,000.

  9. Post #9
    I work under clearence dumbfuck
    TankMan's Avatar
    June 2009
    1,530 Posts
    You all hate me but this is only helping catbarf out. @catbarf: prepare to be pulling out the battery constantly. The trigger on myne sticks ALL THE TIME. I had to open up my m60 and re-allign the electrical trigger switch. Good luck and hope you can fix it.
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  10. Post #10
    Gold Member
    Foosili's Avatar
    January 2005
    7,708 Posts
    ...Or you could just rewire the contacts so they don't stick.

  11. Post #11
    I work under clearence dumbfuck
    TankMan's Avatar
    June 2009
    1,530 Posts
    rewiring them wont help.... you either have to replace the lectrical switch or adjust it.

  12. Post #12
    No such thing as overkill.
    catbarf's Avatar
    January 2007
    7,999 Posts
    I opened it up, the trigger contacts are in a small microswitch box mounted in the gearbox. The switch itself is not disengaging properly, but I recognize it as a copy of a Cherry NC/NO limit microswitch, so I've ordered a replacement and some spares in case this happens again. While I had the gearbox open, I figured I'd re-shim it. While the stock shimming wasn't terrible, it definitely benefits from re-shimming, and a cleanup to remove the excess green gunk everywhere. Lastly, I discovered that the spring in it is without a doubt identical to the 425-450fps spring that came with my MP44, which is interesting and shows that the gun definitely does not fully compress the spring when it fires.

  13. Post #13
    I work under clearence dumbfuck
    TankMan's Avatar
    June 2009
    1,530 Posts
    Good, glad you could locate the problem. The replacement trigger gaurd is better one, i hope it works out for you.
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  14. Post #14
    Otter Member
    GhostProject's Avatar
    May 2011
    4,637 Posts
    I have this gun, heavy as shit, you're better off setting up the bipod and camping it hidden somewhere, rather than going commando running around with it. Also the box mag can get in the way. Great gun though, I think it's awesome looking. I still haven't gotten the dummy rounds that I ordered, they make the gun look so nice.
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  15. Post #15
    No such thing as overkill.
    catbarf's Avatar
    January 2007
    7,999 Posts
    I have this gun, heavy as shit, you're better off setting up the bipod and camping it hidden somewhere, rather than going commando running around with it. Also the box mag can get in the way. Great gun though, I think it's awesome looking. I still haven't gotten the dummy rounds that I ordered, they make the gun look so nice.
    Your mileage may vary when it comes to how you use it, I had no problem treating it like an assault rifle and running around with it today. As for dummy rounds, I recommend getting some inert 7.62s, as they're both cheaper and better looking than plastic replicas intended for airsoft.

  16. Post #16
    Otter Member
    GhostProject's Avatar
    May 2011
    4,637 Posts
    Your mileage may vary when it comes to how you use it, I had no problem treating it like an assault rifle and running around with it today. As for dummy rounds, I recommend getting some inert 7.62s, as they're both cheaper and better looking than plastic replicas intended for airsoft.
    They're real 7.62s, they've been deactivated.

    You're probably a lot bigger than I am if you can Rambo that pig around a field, I was able to carry it for a good hour and a half before I started to get really tired.

  17. Post #17
    No such thing as overkill.
    catbarf's Avatar
    January 2007
    7,999 Posts
    Like I said, your mileage may vary. As I mentioned in the OP, I'd really only recommend this gun to people who can handle the size and weight- for someone who wants an M60 but isn't hung up on having the original Vietnam model, the E4 is cheaper and much, much lighter. The VN sure looks nice, but if you're not able to use it as anything other than a stationary emplacement, you lose some effectiveness.

  18. Post #18
    I work under clearence dumbfuck
    TankMan's Avatar
    June 2009
    1,530 Posts
    Last post before i leave here for good, Take a few to read this, a experienced RIVRON guy wrote this just for guys like you who are starting out with the support class role. http://www.airsoft-indiana.com/forum...erators-guide/

  19. Post #19
    NEO 卐 NAZI HERO <3
    Inafinus :3's Avatar
    September 2009
    3,997 Posts
    he'll be back in a few hours
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  20. Post #20
    About as smart and adept as a pile of turds
    oakman26's Avatar
    January 2010
    3,466 Posts
    Wow i read that article you posted and I never knew AustinWolv was so kown in airsoft

    Edited:

    Panzergraf has a awesome MG3
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  21. Post #21
    like..dude..nevermind....fuck
    DarkZero135's Avatar
    July 2011
    4,629 Posts
    Wow i read that article you posted and I never knew AustinWolv was so kown in airsoft

    Edited:

    Panzergraf has a awesome MG3

    hnnnnng
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  22. Post #22
    FPKawaii's Avatar
    June 2010
    6,357 Posts
    Last post before i leave here for good, Take a few to read this, a experienced RIVRON guy wrote this just for guys like you who are starting out with the support class role. http://www.airsoft-indiana.com/forum...erators-guide/
    o ya and i wrote it and all the pics i took of myself and my gear
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  23. Post #23
    Deathwig's Avatar
    April 2009
    1,235 Posts
    Dear Santa...
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  24. Post #24
    Taepodong-2's Avatar
    December 2009
    13,738 Posts
    If I had an MG3 I would get Norwegian gear and be the ultimate badass Viking SAW gunner.
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  25. Post #25
    Gold Member
    Jenkem's Avatar
    June 2009
    2,622 Posts
    Is there a way to strip weight off these things other than removing the bipod, VN SEAL style?

  26. Post #26
    YEAH, AND?
    felix the cat's Avatar
    December 2010
    9,533 Posts
    The SEALs in Vietnam typically used the Stoner 63 rather than the M60

  27. Post #27
    Gold Member
    Timebomb575's Avatar
    January 2011
    5,748 Posts
    Is there a way to strip weight off these things other than removing the bipod, VN SEAL style?
    Buy an E4
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  28. Post #28
    Gold Member
    Jenkem's Avatar
    June 2009
    2,622 Posts
    The SEALs in Vietnam typically used the Stoner 63 rather than the M60
    I'm aware of this. Pretty sure it was one of the first things they tried though.

    Would still like it lighter. As long as the organizers don't realize I've done it, and as long as it's more than 8 or 9 pounds, I can get away with it being technically allowed.

  29. Post #29
    No such thing as overkill.
    catbarf's Avatar
    January 2007
    7,999 Posts
    Is there a way to strip weight off these things other than removing the bipod, VN SEAL style?
    The SEAL style is a little more than the bipod removed- the barrel and gas tube were typically chopped down to just in front of the foregrip, with the sights and carry handle removed. That would take off a few pounds. The E4, as suggested, would be lighter still. But if you're looking for a light gun, you shouldn't be looking at an M60 in the first place, let alone a VN. An M249 would be far more portable with similar performance, and wouldn't be questionable as a support weapon like an MG36 or M4 with box mag.

    Felix- The Stoner wasn't widely used, it was hard to get ahold of, and more importantly it was difficult to procure linked 5.56mm for it. I'm pretty sure M60s, modified or not, were more common, but for the most part SEALs didn't use heavy GPMGs as much as regular infantry.
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  30. Post #30
    Gold Member
    Jenkem's Avatar
    June 2009
    2,622 Posts
    No, I didn't mean to say that taking the bipod off is SEAL style. I meant that they frequently tore off as many non-essential parts as possible to maximize their maneuverability without sacrificing firepower.

  31. Post #31
    Gold Member
    Timebomb575's Avatar
    January 2011
    5,748 Posts
    Would still like it lighter. As long as the organizers don't realize I've done it, and as long as it's more than 8 or 9 pounds, I can get away with it being technically allowed.
    Like catbarf said, go with an M249 para or something and just strip that down.

  32. Post #32
    Gold Member
    Jenkem's Avatar
    June 2009
    2,622 Posts
    Para is kind of stripped down anyway. There wouldn't be much gun left if I did that...

  33. Post #33
    Gold Member
    Timebomb575's Avatar
    January 2011
    5,748 Posts
    Para is kind of stripped down anyway. There wouldn't be much gun left if I did that...
    Stock, bipod, and heat shield can all come off

  34. Post #34
    Gold Member
    Jenkem's Avatar
    June 2009
    2,622 Posts
    Okay, that's not as bad as I thought.

    Pardon me, but I appear to have hijacked this thread. My apologies, I will present my shiny white buttocks for subsequent 6mm punishment.

  35. Post #35
    No such thing as overkill.
    catbarf's Avatar
    January 2007
    7,999 Posts
    Figured I'd report on my upgrades, to give a better idea of what this machine can do. I have swapped out the spring for an M140, which is netting 380-390FPS due to the aforementioned longer piston stroke.

    I might as well describe that in a bit more detail- basically, the gearbox uses standard gears, but has a very long body. This means that even with the spring guide in place, the spring is farther back on this AEG than on most others. An SP120, for example, takes some force to fit in a V3 gearbox (you need to compress it somewhat to fit), but just slides in without much resistance on this one. The result is that because the gearbox uses conventional gears, piston, etc., it pulls back the spring the same distance as a normal AEG- but because the spring is farther back to begin with, it doesn't get compressed as much.

    I also took the opportunity to replace the motor, swapping it out for a G&P M120. This is a high-speed motor designed to take up to an M120 spring, but thanks to the wackiness with the gearbox length it can pull a M140 spring just fine. I'm seeing a big improvement over the stock motor, so definitely consider this as a first upgrade if you decide to open up the gearbox. Before it was shooting ~14-15 rps on a 350FPS spring, now it's shooting 17rps at 390FPS (which I expect to decrease a bit as the spring wears in, netting a consequent increase in rate of fire).

    Another thing is that I found a replacement trigger switch that doesn't cost as much as the Classic Army one. Cherry microswitches cost about a dollar each, and while not a direct match for the one in the gun, are very easy to modify- pry the microswitch open, move the actuation lever back, and remove a small plastic spacer to increase the resistance (giving it a more solid click on and off). Here you can see a number of switches I've modified in this manner, which cost about $5 in total for the group and are reasonably easy to swap out.

    Lastly, I added a rail to the feed tray cover, as I feel a scope will make it easier to track BBs at longer range. The scope itself is a G&P 'Elken' (Elcan) scope. Adding the rail cover was fairly straightforward, just drill a pair of holes wherever you'd like the rail to go, and then use hex nuts to keep it in place. By resting the rail on the protruding middle section of the feed tray cover, it's very stable. The one thing I did wrong was I slightly misaligned the rail, so had to drill further, and then Locktite it in place (hence the discoloration) once aligned properly. Adding the rail is a very simple and straightforward modification, if you feel you need some sort of optics. If you don't glue it in place like I did, you could even have the rail be removable, to preserve the Vietnam look when you want it.

    And so here is the M60 in its current state. With the bipod removed and the scope placed so far back, the weight is distributed much more comfortably, and I can shoulder it more easily than before.


  36. Post #36
    rivershark's Avatar
    February 2010
    1,242 Posts
    I have this gun (got it December of 2009 I think) and although it is being repaired right now, it worked really well the whole time I had it. I got it for 'namsoft (woop woop) and I am left handed so instead of the mag sticking into my stomach it is the charging handle :smithicide:. Two things on the gun shit out on me:

    MOSFET: I think I got it all wet. Didn't work while the MOSFET was installed. So I disconnected it, put on the included override plug, and it works like a champ.

    Bipod Mount: The V shaped piece that goes around the barrel that the bipod legs hook onto, that broke before the first game. Luckily I found a real-steel mount for $60, it fit the barrel perfectly, but not the legs. So I needed to get bigger bolts to mount the legs, and drill out the bipod holes a bit, now it is rock solid.

    OP, this is just my two cents, but I don't know why the fuck you would remove the bipod. IMHO it ruins half the functionality of the gun because you can't really mount it or set it up anymore, it's just like a big dumb rifle. Also, it's already a 20 pound gun, the bipod is well worth the 2-3 pounds. Also mine shot really nice (and really hot) out of the box so I wouldn't recommend a spring upgrade. Also, I use a ('nam era correct) US GP strap with a slip-on USMC shoulder pad, is relatively comfy for a 4 foot long 20 pound gun.

  37. Post #37
    your all nerdes
    the_killer24's Avatar
    November 2007
    14,138 Posts
    I weighed it unloaded unbipoded when I first got it and it read 13.7 lbs, which is a pretty nice weight for a ~dynamic gunner

  38. Post #38
    No such thing as overkill.
    catbarf's Avatar
    January 2007
    7,999 Posts
    MOSFET: I think I got it all wet. Didn't work while the MOSFET was installed. So I disconnected it, put on the included override plug, and it works like a champ.
    Yep, as mentioned the 'MOSFET' isn't a MOSFET at all, it's a simple potentiometer that works by increasing the resistance in the circuit- so it controls your rate of fire by decreasing the amount of power going to your motor, which IMO is pretty bad.

    Bipod Mount: The V shaped piece that goes around the barrel that the bipod legs hook onto, that broke before the first game. Luckily I found a real-steel mount for $60, it fit the barrel perfectly, but not the legs. So I needed to get bigger bolts to mount the legs, and drill out the bipod holes a bit, now it is rock solid.
    Glad to hear it, I will probably end up getting a real steel bipod mount at some point since pot metal really doesn't cut it.

    OP, this is just my two cents, but I don't know why the fuck you would remove the bipod. IMHO it ruins half the functionality of the gun because you can't really mount it or set it up anymore, it's just like a big dumb rifle. Also, it's already a 20 pound gun, the bipod is well worth the 2-3 pounds.
    My problem with the bipod isn't the weight, it's the positioning- at the end of a 4 foot pole, that three pounds really makes a difference when almost all of the weight is otherwise concentrated at the back of the gun. But more importantly, I just didn't find it useful. It doesn't swivel, so traverse is limited, and even un-extended I found it too tall for the waist-high walls I was deploying it on to kneel effectively- and more importantly, it elevated the gun and myself above the piece of cover, making me an easier target. I got much more use out of the gun just resting the barrel on whatever I was taking cover behind.

    If I thought I might be using the gun prone, I would definitely keep the bipod, as that's where it's really useful. The way I've been using the pig, though, is treating it like a 'big dumb rifle' as you put it, and only mount/deploy when defending an area or keeping a position for a length of time, and in both cases I find some piece of cover to set it on. The point of a support gun is high volume of continuous fire, and I don't think that role necessarily requires it to be deployed in a static position. As always, your mileage may vary; I'm a pretty big guy and can shoulder it effectively. Another player may not be able to use it without the bipod, and so removal isn't a viable option, but in that case as I said I'd recommend the Mk43 instead just so the ability to fire on the move is there if needed.

    Also mine shot really nice (and really hot) out of the box so I wouldn't recommend a spring upgrade. Also, I use a ('nam era correct) US GP strap with a slip-on USMC shoulder pad, is relatively comfy for a 4 foot long 20 pound gun.
    I've seen a lot of variance in the FPS. Some people get 425+ out of the box, some people get 300. You might have been lucky and got one of the more powerful ones, I know mine was ~350 out of the box, which isn't terrible by any means, but for a support gun where I need as much range as I can get, I wanted a little more.

    I agree that the strap is very handy, I've gotten good use out of it by adopting a left-handed carry position with the gun at a 45 degree angle across my front at waist level.

    I weighed it unloaded unbipoded when I first got it and it read 13.7 lbs, which is a pretty nice weight for a ~dynamic gunner
    That seems unusually low, even with the bipod removed. The gun should easily be at least 18.

  39. Post #39
    rivershark's Avatar
    February 2010
    1,242 Posts
    If I thought I might be using the gun prone, I would definitely keep the bipod, as that's where it's really useful. The way I've been using the pig, though, is treating it like a 'big dumb rifle' as you put it, and only mount/deploy when defending an area or keeping a position for a length of time, and in both cases I find some piece of cover to set it on. The point of a support gun is high volume of continuous fire, and I don't think that role necessarily requires it to be deployed in a static position. As always, your mileage may vary; I'm a pretty big guy and can shoulder it effectively. Another player may not be able to use it without the bipod, and so removal isn't a viable option, but in that case as I said I'd recommend the Mk43 instead just so the ability to fire on the move is there if needed.
    Yeah, I guess it depends a lot on where you like to set up and what sort of AO you play in. Where I play there are really only "field-ish" fields (no really urban areas) so I find myself setting it up prone behind a tree, on the lip of a trench, that sort of thing. In spots like these I find the bipod is necessary, hell, I wish all my guns had bipods sometimes. But I suppose the more urban things got the more good places to rest it you would find and subsequently, the less need for a bipod you would have.

    That seems unusually low, even with the bipod removed. The gun should easily be at least 18.
    I agree. I don't have a REALLY accurate scale, but I weighed mine when full of .2g ammo and it clocked in at 20 lbs.

    Lastly, that Elcan scope looks pretty badass on your '60.

  40. Post #40
    Hey catbarf, take a pic of you urban proning your M60. I want to see this.