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Post #281
WTF is this on my Chrome icon
It just showed up in the middle of my session I believe, friend identified as a horse and not, as I originally thought, a dog turd
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I have no idea, ask this guy:
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please dieI have no idea, ask this guy:
Edited:
you should get another PSU
and im dumb
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Why? I just bought this new 600w PSU after my 545 blew up in pieces, was like 120$.
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You got ripped off hard. You can get a Corsair Pro 850w for $130
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sorry
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http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139010
Actually $119 after rebates.
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I'm from Canada (The fuck, just figured facepunch register me as the USA and so does another website, meanwhile teamspeak registers me as from Britain)
Canada usually get shafted very hard in prices and specially shipping, so I didn't really get ripped off.
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it's an enermax psu you retards, better than anything else you can buy
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Well, what could I get then that wouldn't make my PSU blow up to pieces? I just want to run my games on higher than 10 fps average, I'm dying to play LA Noire, I don't care about graphics as much as I care to be able to play my games.
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its not that bad, reviews say it actually works overloaded pretty well, just dont buy enermax in the future
edit: im dumb and enermax is great
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I dont wannt use screws to mount my drives and fans - aret there rubblwe thinngys i can use?
also 200 mm dust filters... they make em?
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I don't know how accurate this website is, but I tried it to calculate what sort of wattage I would need with a GTX 550 Ti, I even added more than I have to see if I could go over the Wattage limit and I still stayed under 600w, I put the load to 100%, added two GTX 550 Ti, added more ram than I actually have and all that and I still wasn't above my wattage.
I'm still confused though, is 600w actually not enough for 1 GTX 550 Ti?
I don't want to risk my recently acquired PSU blowing up but I want to upgrade from my 3870 HD X2 because I get like 10 fps average on TOR and LA Noire and battlefield 3.
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I run a 560ti, 4 HDDs and an i5 plus like ~20 firewire and USB peripherals on a 580W tagan, and have done for a while.
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report for trolling
Edited:
not even kidding, this is literally the worst possible advice anyone could ever give
I've lost so much respect for you it's not even funny
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ok im dumb and always confuse enermax with another brand, enermax are good
Edited:
im so sorry their logo looks so similar to another brand, this isnt the first time i've done this
Edited:
honestly
I confuse these two up, never buy a coolmax product
Edited:
im so sorry :(
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rofl I was about to explode
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Holy shit, couldn't tell if Odellus was trolling or Shadaez, that was confusing.
Edited:
I take it a 550 Ti won't blow up my PSU to pieces then.
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no of course not
Edited:
you could easily run a 580 on that
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Enermax is a really good brand. I got a NAXN 82+ 750W for $100 on sale and it rocks.
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I want to transfer a 4GB zip file to my Mother in Florida. How might I go about doing that seeing as every file host I've tried to use has had a limit smaller than that?
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Use your own host, buy a VPS for a month ($5 or something), split the file up, consider why you're sending 4GB, direct transfer, peer-to-peer.
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I've heard of something called FTP, how does it work?
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That would be a way. You need to run a FTP server. It will upload to her as fast as your upload speed is (probably not good).
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How might I go about setting up an FTP server, perhaps with the computer I'm using right now? (Also, thanks in advance for the help.)
Edit: Is FileZilla any good?
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Nobody has replyed about my latest Q
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Rubblwe thiingys? That's probably why no one answered, I'm not even entirely sure what you're trying to say.
As for the 200 mm dust filters, yes, they exist, they go for around 9,99$ I believe.
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Okay I'm trying to figure out which part of my new(ish) build is faulty. I have a feeling it's the GPU that I've had for about a year now so I'm going to run Furmark for a while and see if I get any artifacting or bluescreens.
If that isn't it, I'll run Prime95 on stock clocks to figure out if it's the CPU. What should I run to test the memory? I'm fairly sure there's nothing wrong with my hard drive because I've just swapped my windows installation to another drive and I'm still getting the same problems.
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What's the problems?
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If I'm playing a game every few seconds there'll be a second or two where the game freezes and the sound buzzes. Other than that, I can't play Saints Row 3 for more than 10 minutes without a bluescreen, and I got a bluescreen while converting a video using Handbrake yesterday.
I just ran Furmark and there were no obvious artifacts but I had the same jittering problem as I would have in game. I ran Prime 95 on Blend mode after that and after about 30 seconds I had to perform a hard reboot. I'm going to try that again now after installing the chipset drivers on my motherboard DVD.
Parts I'm using are: i5 2500k, Asus P8Z68-V LX, an MSI R5770 PMD1G and 2x4GB Crucial BallistiX Sport 1333mhz. I got everything but the 5770 last week.
Edited:
Just thought that it would be a better idea to get the latest chipset drivers from the Intel website instead of off the DVD, and thought that I had better update my audio drivers while I was at it. I double clicked on the audio software suite in the system tray and had to force another reboot. This is starting to take the piss
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Oh haha I didn't see my mistakes
Rubber/ silicone things you can use for installing fans tool-less
and they make something for HDD's too but i dont know the names or what to look for
Edited:
are you likeing the I5 2500k? (SB?)If I'm playing a game every few seconds there'll be a second or two where the game freezes and the sound buzzes. Other than that, I can't play Saints Row 3 for more than 10 minutes without a bluescreen, and I got a bluescreen while converting a video using Handbrake yesterday.
I just ran Furmark and there were no obvious artifacts but I had the same jittering problem as I would have in game. I ran Prime 95 on Blend mode after that and after about 30 seconds I had to perform a hard reboot. I'm going to try that again now after installing the chipset drivers on my motherboard DVD.
Parts I'm using are: i5 2500k, Asus P8Z68-V LX, an MSI R5770 PMD1G and 2x4GB Crucial BallistiX Sport 1333mhz. I got everything but the 5770 last week.
Edited:
Just thought that it would be a better idea to get the latest chipset drivers from the Intel website instead of off the DVD, and thought that I had better update my audio drivers while I was at it. I double clicked on the audio software suite in the system tray and had to force another reboot. This is starting to take the piss
Edited:
Will i have problems with keeping the same window's install with my new hardwhere?
How can i make a new install easier?
I was thinking of making 2 partitions on my main drive (C:)
How much does windows NEED? I was thing make a 30 GB one for windows...
I want to swap these around... how can i do that without takeing forever....? C: is starting to fail - disc spinup failing
Also can i make programs install to say G: and still...work? or would i need a reg backup?
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I would be liking the 2500k if it was working. Another 20 seconds in Prime 95 after installing the latest chipset drivers and it's still bluescreening. This shouldn't be happening. Currently at stock clocks too.
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Are the voltages set to manual, if so what are they? If automatic turn them to manual and 1.2v, keep trying increasing the voltage in increments of 0.025 until you get it stable or reach 1.4v then consider RMAing.
And what about memory voltages/timings/clocks? A picture of both your BIOS settings and CPUz would be useful.
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for some reason it's differentiating between x34 and x35 on the multiplier when there's something happening, is it a good idea to turn this off?
also there's no stuttering during games anymore and I've not had any bluescreens since my last post, but I'm fairly sure that if I were to run Prime 95 again it would crash
Edited:
0.9v at 3.5ghz isn't good is it, I'll swap it to manual and try 1.2v soon
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Could be defective....? Might need to return it?
Oh are4 you trying to over clock it?
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Good idea, and a differentiating multiplier isn't uncommon really.
for some reason it's differentiating between x34 and x35 on the multiplier when there's something happening, is it a good idea to turn this off?
also there's no stuttering during games anymore and I've not had any bluescreens since my last post, but I'm fairly sure that if I were to run Prime 95 again it would crash
Edited:
0.9v at 3.5ghz isn't good is it, I'll swap it to manual and try 1.2v soon
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most likely RAM imo
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Probably, I want to see his timings.
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Is it wise to use SCSI drives instead of SATA ones? Will 15k RPM ones make things faster or should I use 1 or 2 in tandem with SATA ones?
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for what?
Funny x 3
Dumb x 2
Disagree x 1
Agree x 3
