It's not my fault if you didn't explain the problem clearly.
Get a bluetooth serial module for the MCU.
Okay, so what if I wanted to turn off my lights in my room via a programming? (Preferably C#), What would I need?
Basically do it with servos becauce you'll ever kill yourself or burn down your house if you fiddle with mains.
- Voltage regulator
- A microcontroller (Atmel, Microchip, Texas Instruments, etc)
- RS-232 interface (or USB) to communicate with controller if desired.
- Relay rated for mains voltage at 1A
- Transistor to drive the relay
- Diode to protect transistor
- PCB mount screw terminals for mains connection
- Pad board to put it all on
- Box to put it in, preferably inside the wall.
If you want to do something simple like light sensing to switch the light on/off then you can pretty much skip the microcontroller and just use an analog circuit.
I assume you're quite new to electronics so I would advise against any project using mains until you're more experienced, or at least talk to someone who knows what they're doing before wiring it up.
So, they're connected to each other, now what? Do i have to write an android app? Am i going to need one of those intermediary boards like arduino ADK or IOIO? Let's say i want to use my phone's calender to make a few ports on my MCU high at a specific time and date? How should i go about doing this?
They're connected with which? Because MCU <-- USB --> Android isn't going to work. Android is designed to act as a USB device, not a host.
Also, you haven't told us which platform you're using. Did you go with the Arduino or the TI?
Yes, you will need to write code to make them talk to each other. AFAIK, you will not need any sort of dev. kit aside from the usual Android SDK and Arduino (or MSP) toolchain.
It's generally better to include too much information than too little when posting a question.
Ok, so you're communicating through the computer, using bluetooth on the Android's end and USB/Serial on the MCU's side?
I've never done Bluetooth before, but 'Bluetooth sockets' don't look that different from regular TCP sockets. And for the Windows machine.
On the Arduino side, you've got a nice serial library. And the Win API.
If you don't have everything all set up yet, install the Android SDK, Code::Blocks, and the Arduino software.
I'd suggest you play around, make a few simple applications for each, and get comfortable before you start on the real thing.
You'll probably want to set it up so that the Windows machine is the 'server' and it just acts as a dumb relay between the two clients.
I hope it's flame proof!
Does anyone here recommend the Teensy++ w/pins to start with?
I've been thinking about ordering some lower cost wooden cigar boxes on ebay to start using as project boxes. I was easily finding them for as little as $3 shipped each in packs of 5 or more.
Any reason why you don't recommend the Teensy?
If you blow it up you'll have a hard time replacing the chip.
It's also a little overpriced for what you get, the chip itself only costs $11 but if you don't already have an avr programmer it's probably worth the extra price.
If you're just looking to get into microcontrollers I'd recommend the MSP430 launchpad which is cheap at $4.30 and you get two different microcontrollers with it, Ti also like to give out samples so you can easily get your hands on even better chips for free.
Anybody knows a good electronic store to buy in bulk from?
In the US, there's Mouser and Digi-Key.
Are there any juicy stuff to salvage from an old CRT tv? The electron gun itself is most likely damaged (might just be some capacitors though) and I've ripped out the speakers.
Alright, might go a second round with it tomorrow. Retrieved a 2Mbit EPROM IC, have no idea how to read from it though.
You could use four 4 bit binary ripple counters(That cascade upon the next) to cycle through the entire address range of the chip and just have a microcontroller read the values on the 8 bit data bus.
Assuming you are using the standard model with 14 pins, you still need 3 for the control pins & 8 for reading the output data. Leaving you 3 pins to address the chip. :/
Now you could use a 74HC595:
And that will free up some pins allowing you to probably address all the data.
Alright, thanks for the advice. Looks like this is gonna turn into a little project of mine, figure it could be a nice way to learn more about ICs and electronics.