1. Post #721
    Gold Member
    ddrl46's Avatar
    October 2007
    3,681 Posts
    That person clearly doesn't understand the vacuum aspect of vacuum tubes.
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  2. Post #722
    Gold Member
    VistaPOWA's Avatar
    October 2008
    8,370 Posts
    IT'S A VACUUM TUBE, IT WILL SURELY WORK IN AIR TOO HURR DURR.

    Edited:

    Apparently, one piece of that type of tube costs about $40.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Westinghouse...ht_2203wt_1177
    He just ruined $320 worth of electronics.
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  3. Post #723
    chipset's Avatar
    November 2010
    2,262 Posts
    It's probably just someone who had an already broken tube and decided to pull a funny.
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  4. Post #724
    Slaaf van EternalFlamez.Ik wilde heel graag de laatste Indie Bundle, en ik kreeg deze kuttitel er gratis bij.
    Staneh's Avatar
    March 2010
    4,064 Posts
    If you don't want to blow the leds up you might want to get some resistors (470 and 1k are nice values).
    Right, I'll buy some of those then too.

    Edited:

    I still need a good electronics shop too, I'm in the Netherlands and I don't want to spend 10 euro shipping costs for a 4 euro order.
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  5. Post #725
    Gold Member
    VistaPOWA's Avatar
    October 2008
    8,370 Posts
    Try finding a local shop that sells electronic components and buy from there instead.

    Edited:

    I also recommend Tayda Electronics, cheap prices and free shipping:
    http://www.taydaelectronics.com/
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  6. Post #726
    Slaaf van EternalFlamez.Ik wilde heel graag de laatste Indie Bundle, en ik kreeg deze kuttitel er gratis bij.
    Staneh's Avatar
    March 2010
    4,064 Posts
    Try finding a local shop that sells electronic components and buy from there instead.

    Edited:

    I also recommend Tayda Electronics, cheap prices and free shipping:
    http://www.taydaelectronics.com/
    Ah, thanks, that's very cheap indeed.
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  7. Post #727
    Gold Member
    Chryseus's Avatar
    February 2009
    2,432 Posts
    Right, so I'm planning to buy an Arduino Uno, with cables, leds and a breadboard to start with, am I missing something to just start off with?
    Resistors, capacitors, diodes, transistors, op-amps, 74xxxx / 4xxx series logic, sensors, etc
    Assuming you plan on doing anything other than lighting up a few LEDs

    Get a good selection of components, there is nothing worse that finding you don't have the correct component on hand.
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  8. Post #728
    masterburner's Avatar
    February 2007
    116 Posts

    Oh my god... That can't be real. No body is that stupid... :|
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  9. Post #729
    Slaaf van EternalFlamez.Ik wilde heel graag de laatste Indie Bundle, en ik kreeg deze kuttitel er gratis bij.
    Staneh's Avatar
    March 2010
    4,064 Posts
    Is there anyone I can add to maybe ask some basic questions about electronics? I've got some, and more will probably follow.
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  10. Post #730
    Gold Member
    0lenny0's Avatar
    March 2010
    411 Posts
    Why don't you just go ahead and post them? If they are some basic questions then i can assure you that you will get the answers.
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  11. Post #731
    Slaaf van EternalFlamez.Ik wilde heel graag de laatste Indie Bundle, en ik kreeg deze kuttitel er gratis bij.
    Staneh's Avatar
    March 2010
    4,064 Posts
    Right, here is one: What's the difference between a 1/4W resistor, a 1/2W resistor and a 1W resistor?
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  12. Post #732
    Gold Member
    VistaPOWA's Avatar
    October 2008
    8,370 Posts
    The difference is how much wattage it can take.

    P = U * I
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  13. Post #733
    Slaaf van EternalFlamez.Ik wilde heel graag de laatste Indie Bundle, en ik kreeg deze kuttitel er gratis bij.
    Staneh's Avatar
    March 2010
    4,064 Posts
    Ah, okay, I'm going to watch some videos on basic electronics, my arduino should be arriving around 31may.
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  14. Post #734
    www.bff-hab.de
    Dennab
    February 2009
    7,832 Posts
    The difference basically is it's size. The bigger it is, the more power it can dissipate without failing in a catastrophic manner (smoke, fire, explosions).
    I suggest you get 1/4 W resistors, they're all you ever going to need to the beginning.
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  15. Post #735
    Slaaf van EternalFlamez.Ik wilde heel graag de laatste Indie Bundle, en ik kreeg deze kuttitel er gratis bij.
    Staneh's Avatar
    March 2010
    4,064 Posts
    Right, i'll buy a big set of electrical components tomorrow.
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  16. Post #736
    Gold Member
    Ragy's Avatar
    April 2009
    2,463 Posts
    Right, here is one: What's the difference between a 1/4W resistor, a 1/2W resistor and a 1W resistor?
    The difference is the maximum power the resistor can dissipate before it fails.
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  17. Post #737
    Slaaf van EternalFlamez.Ik wilde heel graag de laatste Indie Bundle, en ik kreeg deze kuttitel er gratis bij.
    Staneh's Avatar
    March 2010
    4,064 Posts
    The difference is the maximum power the resistor is dissipate before it fails.
    And what about Metal Film Resistors and Carbon Film Resistors?
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  18. Post #738
    Gold Member
    Ragy's Avatar
    April 2009
    2,463 Posts
    And what about Metal Film Resistors and Carbon Film Resistors?
    Metal and carbon resistors are just two of multiple types of materials resistors are constructed of, each containing different resistance, power dissipation, and shape properties. As a beginner, just stick to carbon composite resistors, as they are very affordable, durable, and common.
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  19. Post #739
    LoneWolf_Recon's Avatar
    May 2011
    1,752 Posts
    Metal and carbon resistors are just two of multiple types of materials resistors are constructed of, each containing different resistance, power dissipation, and shape properties. As a beginner, just stick to carbon composite resistors, as they are very affordable, durable, and common.
    To add to Ragy, Carbon Composites are also 'purely' resistive compared to metal film resistors. That is, Metal films have small capacitive and inductive properties that can foul with high frequency circuits.

    But as Ragy said, you need not worry about the material now.
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  20. Post #740
    Gold Member
    Chryseus's Avatar
    February 2009
    2,432 Posts
    Resistors have eight basic properties, which depending on what you're doing are worth knowing:

    Resistance measured in Ohms
    Maximum voltage rating
    Tolerance (how close the resistance should be to the marked value, given in %)
    Temperature coefficient (how much resistance changes with temperature, given in parts per million)
    Voltage coefficient (how much resistance varies with applied voltage, also measured in ppm)
    Long term stability (the degree to which resistance drifts over time, measured in ppm)
    Noise (the amount of thermal noise and 1/f noise generated by the resistor, given in V/sqrt(Hz).
    Lead inductance / capacitance.

    Some of the common types of resistors are:

    Carbon film
    These are your generic cheap resistors, usually available up to 1W and with a tolerance of 5% or more, they have moderate noise and fairly poor temperature coefficient so should be avoided where precision and noise are of concern, but for everything else I'd recommend them.

    Metal film
    Similar to the carbon film but with significantly better characteristics, tolerances of 1% are standard so these should be used in circuits where good accuracy and low noise are desired. These are easily identified by their blue coating.

    Wirewound
    These can either be designed for power or accuracy, some can handle several hundred watts or have tolerances better than 0.05%, they are also extremely stable long term and handle overloads well, they however tend to have poor high frequency response due to high inductance.

    Resistors also come in series such as the E6, E12 or E24 series, for a beginner I'd recommend you at least have a decent amount of E12 series resistors, 1/4W carbon film should do the job fine for pretty much anything you'll be doing, getting some 1% metal film would be quite useful however, at least in the commonly used 1k, 10k and 100k values.

    Now I'm going to sleep it's 2am
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  21. Post #741
    Gold Member
    0lenny0's Avatar
    March 2010
    411 Posts
    I seem to have run into a little problem. I connected a transistor as a switch, which is switching a 12V psu that controls a 12V DC relay. The relay refuses to switch on when the transistor is supposed to close the circuit. I am measuring the 12V going trough the transistor and arriving at the relay yet it remains inactive. If i connect the psu without the transistor then the relay works just fine. Does anybody have an idea What could be wrong?
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  22. Post #742
    Gold Member
    Chryseus's Avatar
    February 2009
    2,432 Posts
    Draw your circuit
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  23. Post #743
    Gold Member
    0lenny0's Avatar
    March 2010
    411 Posts

    This should be it.
    Edited:

    Q1 is not constantly powered, a separate circuit enables it by sending 3.9V
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  24. Post #744
    Gold Member
    ddrl46's Avatar
    October 2007
    3,681 Posts

    This should be it.
    Edited:

    Q1 is not constantly powered, a separate circuit enables it by sending 3.9V
    Nevermind, drawing something.

    Try this:
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  25. Post #745
    Gold Member
    Chryseus's Avatar
    February 2009
    2,432 Posts
    You should also be using a general purpose transistor not a power high voltage transistor which tend to have poor current gain.
    The parallel diode across the relay that Ddrl added is also critical, without it you risk damage to the transistor.
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  26. Post #746
    Gold Member
    0lenny0's Avatar
    March 2010
    411 Posts
    I know that i need to use a diode across the relay to prevent damage but it should work even without it. The diode is only needed for when the relay is going to be switched off. I can't even seem to get it to switch on a.t.m.
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  27. Post #747
    Gold Member
    Chryseus's Avatar
    February 2009
    2,432 Posts
    I know that i need to use a diode across the relay to prevent damage but it should work even without it. The diode is only needed for when the relay is going to be switched off. I can't even seem to get it to switch on a.t.m.
    If you build it like ddrl's circuit above it should work, unless you're doing something seriously wrong.

    Oh wait I just noticed, why is the collector supply the wrong way around...
    No wonder you're having issues.

    I suggest you do some reading before you blow something up > http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/
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  28. Post #748
    www.bff-hab.de
    Dennab
    February 2009
    7,832 Posts
    You should also be using a general purpose transistor not a power high voltage transistor which tend to have poor current gain.
    The parallel diode across the relay that Ddrl added is also critical, without it you risk damage to the transistor.
    It's not just a risk, it WILL happen
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  29. Post #749
    Gold Member
    Chryseus's Avatar
    February 2009
    2,432 Posts
    Not necessarily, assuming an inductance of 200mH, a coil current of 200mA and a discharge time of 1ms it will product a maximum voltage of 40V.
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  30. Post #750
    Gold Member
    Zero-Point's Avatar
    March 2006
    7,460 Posts
    Not necessarily, assuming an inductance of 200mH, a coil current of 200mA and a discharge time of 1ms it will product a maximum voltage of 40V.
    Which, depending on the transistor he's using, may/may not damage the transistor. Better safe than sorry.

    In the case of the transistor he used he would be fine, but it's still good habit to add such safeties.
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  31. Post #751
    www.bff-hab.de
    Dennab
    February 2009
    7,832 Posts
    My PCBs are finally shipping! Now comes the long, long wait...
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  32. Post #752
    Gold Member

    March 2005
    3,028 Posts
    Metal film
    Similar to the carbon film but with significantly better characteristics, tolerances of 1% are standard so these should be used in circuits where good accuracy and low noise are desired. These are easily identified by their blue coating.
    Eh? Is this right?
    Very few of my metal-film resistors have the blue coating.
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  33. Post #753
    Slaaf van EternalFlamez.Ik wilde heel graag de laatste Indie Bundle, en ik kreeg deze kuttitel er gratis bij.
    Staneh's Avatar
    March 2010
    4,064 Posts
    Right, I ordered everything, an Arduino and a SHITLOAD of components.
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  34. Post #754
    Gold Member
    Chryseus's Avatar
    February 2009
    2,432 Posts
    Eh? Is this right?
    Very few of my metal-film resistors have the blue coating.
    I don't think I've ever seen one without the blue coating.
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  35. Post #755
    chipset's Avatar
    November 2010
    2,262 Posts
    Right, I ordered everything, an Arduino and a SHITLOAD of components.
    Congratulations, you're now hooked into dumping every single penny you own into this hobby.
    Welcome to poverty and an awesome hobby.
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  36. Post #756
    www.bff-hab.de
    Dennab
    February 2009
    7,832 Posts
    Congratulations, you're now hooked into dumping every single penny you own into this hobby.
    Welcome to poverty and an awesome hobby.
    My pocket money got raised from 50 to 70/month, now I can buy 40% more stuff every month
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  37. Post #757
    Slaaf van EternalFlamez.Ik wilde heel graag de laatste Indie Bundle, en ik kreeg deze kuttitel er gratis bij.
    Staneh's Avatar
    March 2010
    4,064 Posts
    Well, I get a whopping 24 euros a month pocket money.
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  38. Post #758
    q3k
    Gold Member
    q3k's Avatar
    October 2009
    921 Posts
    Yet another awesome board etched.

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  39. Post #759
    www.bff-hab.de
    Dennab
    February 2009
    7,832 Posts
    Brilliant job! Did you use the toner transfer or photo-resist technique?
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  40. Post #760
    masterburner's Avatar
    February 2007
    116 Posts
    That HAS to be photo-resist. No way you can get those smooth tracks with toner transfer. I never got them that good with toner transfer. Easy enough with photo resist, though.
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